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Aerosport Rudder Trim

rocketman1988

Well Known Member
For those out there flying with the Aerosport rudder trim, i have a question:

How much does the adjustment knob rotate during an average flight? Is it more or less than one full term of the knob?

Thanks!
 
For those out there flying with the Aerosport rudder trim, i have a question:

How much does the adjustment knob rotate during an average flight? Is it more or less than one full term of the knob?

Thanks!

None.

I've got mine set for my standard cruise configuration. I just override it for take off and landing. Every once in awhile, I'll have to make a slight tweak.
 
Clarification

Bob

When you "override" it for takeoff and landing, how much rotation of the knob do you generally use? Is it like a 1/4 turn or more?
 
I had the Blue Skunk one but it is the same science as the Aerosport one
In my opinion, having one is better than not, but having one of either the Dynon or Garmin yaw damper systems which makes the rudder trim obsolete is much better still.

It is amazing how balancing the load from side to side affects the in flight trim. On a few occasions I?ve flown with just one rear pax and which side they sit on makes a difference. Fuel balance obviously makes a difference as well.
 
I had the Blue Skunk one but it is the same science as the Aerosport one
In my opinion, having one is better than not, but having one of either the Dynon or Garmin yaw damper systems which makes the rudder trim obsolete is much better still.

It is amazing how balancing the load from side to side affects the in flight trim. On a few occasions I?ve flown with just one rear pax and which side they sit on makes a difference. Fuel balance obviously makes a difference as well.

I?m confused. Side to side loads should be balanced by aileron trim, not rudder trim. I have a fixed trim wedge on the rudder and no desire for anything more than that in yaw. I do wish that I had installed aileron trim, though.
 
Bob,
In cruise my 10 had the right portion of the ball slightly over the right line. I rested my foot on the right rudder peddle with a little force in cruise. I didn?t want to add the trim tab and the Aerosport rudder trim didn?t fit with my setup. Added the Dynon Yaw Damper. I can tell you it keeps the ball centered. If the ball was way out the results may have been different. I?ve played with the settings and the torque is set lower than my pitch trim. Maybe not recommended but it works fine in my situation.

Gary
 
The two axis, roll and yaw, are interrelated. Bank a normal airplane and it will also change heading. Depress a rudder pedal and it will also induce roll/bank.
The roll axis of the autopilot focuses on its assignment, either to keep the wings level, an assigned bank, or most common, maintain a selected track, heading, or course (Nav). Every time the roll servo makes a correction to accomplish its assigned task, there is inherently a change in yaw as well.
The yaw damper is different. It’s primary goal is keeping the rudder ball centered (that is how it is calibrated). It’s secondary mission is to dampen externally induced oscillations.
The two work in concert for a primary goal of “driving” the aircraft where you want it to go, and secondarily, keeping the aircraft as aerodynamically straight as possible for efficiency. An “action” by one axis will result in a corresponding “reaction” by the other. An external application of force, like an imbalanced load, affects the actions of both.
To really get into the weeds, an aircraft with centerline thrust should do fine with a yaw damper without the need for rudder trim. Assuming of course, that the airframe naturally flies relatively straight. An aircraft with the possibility of high asymmetric thrust (engine loss in a twin) usually will have both merely because of the mechanical advantage difference between the two.
Rudder trim is strong but “dumb” Yaw dampers are “smart”. Pitch trim can be dumb or smart. I have never flown an airplane that had smart roll trim. The Boeing doesn’t. Just like my RV10, the roll trim in the Boeing is strictly mechanical to offset external strain on the roll servo.
Back to the OP. I removed the dumb rudder trim from my airplane when I installed the smart yaw damper system and don’t miss it at all. The airplane rides better and flies straighter in all modes. There is obviously nothing wrong with having both rudder trim and YD. It’s just overkill IMO is a straight flying single. If I ever built a twin, I would definitely have both.
 
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I do the same as Bob. In cruise I'm a 1/2 to 3/4 of a Ball out to the right and was simply resting my right foot on the pedal before I installed the trim system. I've set my trim to center in cruise (1 to 2 turns IIRC but I didn't write it down so I might be off) and then leave it set for that all the time. You won't feel the override necessary to center the ball for climbs and descents--it's that subtle. It's not at all like pitch trim that you can really feel or that requires multiple changes throughout a given flight.
 
Why Not an -8A Rudder Trim Kit?

Anyone have a rudder trim system installed on their -8/-8A? If so, where did you get it - or did you design your own?

Just did a 23-hour trek from IYK (CA) to FWQ (PA) and back and even though it requires minimum right rudder peddle pressure to maintain coordinated flight in all areas of the envelope, it gets to be a PITA during long legs.
 
Anyone have a rudder trim system installed on their -8/-8A? If so, where did you get it - or did you design your own?

Just did a 23-hour trek from IYK (CA) to FWQ (PA) and back and even though it requires minimum right rudder peddle pressure to maintain coordinated flight in all areas of the envelope, it gets to be a PITA during long legs.

The Aerosport Products trim will work on any RV.
 
Anyone have a rudder trim system installed on their -8/-8A? If so, where did you get it - or did you design your own?

Just did a 23-hour trek from IYK (CA) to FWQ (PA) and back and even though it requires minimum right rudder peddle pressure to maintain coordinated flight in all areas of the envelope, it gets to be a PITA during long legs.

I?m reluctant to admit this, since I try to avoid any kluges on control systems, but: On the -10 the rudder cables enter the center tunnel in a location that is easily reached. Before I installed a trim wedge on the rudder, I found that a spring-type paper clip, clamped on the cable under tension right where it entered the tunnel, could hold a small amount of rudder pressure. I could also easily override it if need be. For a long trip of straight and level something like that might work for you.
 
Gust protection

For you guys that have the Aerosport Rudder Trim system
Installed. How effective is it for gust protection when tied down?

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
For you guys that have the Aerosport Rudder Trim system
Installed. How effective is it for gust protection when tied down?

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer

Zero -- the springs aren't that stiff. They are perfectly adequate for the job they are designed for but they do nothing for large gust loads which is why the foot override in-flight works so easily. You still need a dedicated gust lock -- I have the Anti-SplatAero gust lock for gust protection and highly recommend it.
 
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Zero -- the springs aren't that stiff. They are perfectly adequate for the job they are designed for but they do nothing for large gust loads which is why the foot override in-flight works so easily. You still need a dedicated gust lock -- I have the Anti-SplatAero gust lock for gust protection and highly recommend it.
Todd,

I bought the Anti-Splat gust lock a few months ago and I simply cannot get it to work. Do you happen to have any photos of your installation? I have talked to Alan a couple of times but can't get it to work. No matter where I put the device on the stick, a simple pull back on the stick pulls the forks off of the rudder pedals. I have followed the instructions carefully, but I must be doing something wrong. I believe there is another -10 owner in the Ocala, FL area that has the same problem. I'd appreciate any insights you or anybody else might have.
Please pardon the thread drift. PM or email would be fine for anyone that has info for me.
 
Todd,

I bought the Anti-Splat gust lock a few months ago and I simply cannot get it to work. Do you happen to have any photos of your installation? I have talked to Alan a couple of times but can't get it to work. No matter where I put the device on the stick, a simple pull back on the stick pulls the forks off of the rudder pedals. I have followed the instructions carefully, but I must be doing something wrong. I believe there is another -10 owner in the Ocala, FL area that has the same problem. I'd appreciate any insights you or anybody else might have.
Please pardon the thread drift. PM or email would be fine for anyone that has info for me.

Absolutely. I don't have any pics but I'm going out to the hangar tomorrow and will take some. Note that the lock won't immobilize the stick nor keep the lock on the pedals if you pull the stick back like you describe. However, when properly installed, it effectively dampens all the control surfaces. I've used it in gusts up to 30kts multiple times (T-storms) and it has never come off the pedals on its own.
 
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Todd,

I bought the Anti-Splat gust lock a few months ago and I simply cannot get it to work. Do you happen to have any photos of your installation? I have talked to Alan a couple of times but can't get it to work. No matter where I put the device on the stick, a simple pull back on the stick pulls the forks off of the rudder pedals. I have followed the instructions carefully, but I must be doing something wrong. I believe there is another -10 owner in the Ocala, FL area that has the same problem. I'd appreciate any insights you or anybody else might have.
Please pardon the thread drift. PM or email would be fine for anyone that has info for me.

Todd, I bought one of these for my buddy's RV-10 since he's been letting me fly it. Took a bit to get it figured out but here's what I did.

I made the gust lock as short as possible and locked it straight. Then I held it on the pedals and put the control stick just to the side of it, to try and gauge where to position the neck piece. It took a bit, but not too long, maybe 10 mins.

Then I took the gust lock off the pedals and folded it so I could then just get the control stick side actually on the stick and pinned. I may have had to readjust it too. After that I just put the other end on the pedals, used that hang down part to step on it and push it straight and slid that locking piece.
Walla.

After using it a few times my lessons learned are that you need to attach it to the control stick first and then the pedals. Also you need it long enough that it's pushing the stick back and with pressure on the pedals. Sounds like you have it too short if you can pull the stick back and it falls off the pedals.
 
Todd, I bought one of these for my buddy's RV-10 since he's been letting me fly it. Took a bit to get it figured out but here's what I did.

I made the gust lock as short as possible and locked it straight. Then I held it on the pedals and put the control stick just to the side of it, to try and gauge where to position the neck piece. It took a bit, but not too long, maybe 10 mins.

Then I took the gust lock off the pedals and folded it so I could then just get the control stick side actually on the stick and pinned. I may have had to readjust it too. After that I just put the other end on the pedals, used that hang down part to step on it and push it straight and slid that locking piece.
Walla.

After using it a few times my lessons learned are that you need to attach it to the control stick first and then the pedals. Also you need it long enough that it's pushing the stick back and with pressure on the pedals. Sounds like you have it too short if you can pull the stick back and it falls off the pedals.

I'm still missing something here. (I did not sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night). If I have it locked in place, I can still pull the stick back, which pulls the forks off the pedals. Correct? That also means if I walk to the back of the airplane and push the elevator up, the forks will pull off the pedals. Correct? If that is true, then a gust could lift the elevator and pull the forks off the pedals. No? The only way I could see this really locking the controls is if it was long enough to have the stick back against the aft stop and then have the device locked to the stick and the pedals with the tension on it. I know there are enough people using this device that I've just got to be missing a crucial part of the picture here.
 
Myron, which bracket did you use for the YD? Garmin want like $750 just for the mount...

I used the Van’s bracket. It is actually listed as an RV14 accessory, but it works fine. The only difference is that the aft holes that mount to the tunnel flanges are about 3/16 narrower. There are previous threads with pix. Elongating one hole made it work fine. The rest of the install kit came from Dynon. Combined they were pretty expensive but not nearly Garmin prices. I’m not around my invoice book, but it was like half that combined as I recall.

Edited note.
Ok. I looked up the prices. Van’s sells the bracket for either Dynon or Garmin for $160
Dynon’s install kit (bell crank, bow, stub cables, hardware) sells for $150
 
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I'm still missing something here. (I did not sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night). If I have it locked in place, I can still pull the stick back, which pulls the forks off the pedals. Correct? That also means if I walk to the back of the airplane and push the elevator up, the forks will pull off the pedals. Correct? If that is true, then a gust could lift the elevator and pull the forks off the pedals. No? The only way I could see this really locking the controls is if it was long enough to have the stick back against the aft stop and then have the device locked to the stick and the pedals with the tension on it. I know there are enough people using this device that I've just got to be missing a crucial part of the picture here.

As I posted above, I've never had that happen. Theoretically what you describe could happen, but in my experience the weight of the elevators and the friction of the system and the resistance of the gust lock prevent that from happening.
 
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Todd, I bought one of these for my buddy's RV-10 since he's been letting me fly it. Took a bit to get it figured out but here's what I did.

I made the gust lock as short as possible and locked it straight. Then I held it on the pedals and put the control stick just to the side of it, to try and gauge where to position the neck piece. It took a bit, but not too long, maybe 10 mins.

Then I took the gust lock off the pedals and folded it so I could then just get the control stick side actually on the stick and pinned. I may have had to readjust it too. After that I just put the other end on the pedals, used that hang down part to step on it and push it straight and slid that locking piece.
Walla.

After using it a few times my lessons learned are that you need to attach it to the control stick first and then the pedals. Also you need it long enough that it's pushing the stick back and with pressure on the pedals. Sounds like you have it too short if you can pull the stick back and it falls off the pedals.

I marked the shaft at a point that aligns the holes where I feel the lock works best for me -- I'll confirm but it's like the 3rd hole from the end meaning that the lock is a few holes from it's max extension when installed. My install method is to:
1. Put both feet on the pedals to center them up
2. Unfold and slide the retaining collar into place
3. Place pedal end on the pedals
4. Extend the gust lock's shaft to the mark on the shaft and pin
5. Pin the other end of the shaft to the stick at the stick fitting.

When the lock is installed in my configuration, the elevators are slight nose up and the rudder and ailerons are neutral. All of this sounds way more complicated than it really is in practice. Bottom line is I couldn't be happier with the lock's performance in some really nasty, sustained winds.
 
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David, I know you want to fix what you have. But if you can?t make it work, the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar works fine as a gust lock in the -10.
 
David, I know you want to fix what you have. But if you can?t make it work, the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar works fine as a gust lock in the -10.

So does about $10 of parts from the Home Depot Aviation aisle. Over five years of flying and it's still working great. I don't have a photo available online at the moment.

Cut about a quarter off a pvc t-joint and it slips over my rudder pedals just fine. I don't have the stock pedals. A similar t-joint rests on the seat base. The velco secures the stick to the pvc.
 
So does about $10 of parts from the Home Depot Aviation aisle. Over five years of flying and it's still working great. I don't have a photo available online at the moment.

Cut about a quarter off a pvc t-joint and it slips over my rudder pedals just fine. I don't have the stock pedals. A similar t-joint rests on the seat base. The velco secures the stick to the pvc.
Tim Olson has two very good write ups using an adjustable paint roller stick with a few ABS parts to create a very strong, OSH worthy control lock.
http://www.myrv10.com/
 
Here is what I have been using for 6 plus years and 700 hours. All it requires is a pin at the rear, consisting of a #8 screw and castle nut to hold the rear from moving. It works on an over-center lever to hold itself in place. $15 worth of parts from the aviation section of home depot.

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[/url]IMG_2857 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]IMG_2851 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]
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[/url]IMG_2856 by Bill Peyton, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Very cool. I have the gustbuster bungee system which I like, but if I didn?t, I would ?borrow? your idea.
 
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