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Mid Seat Rails

AviatorJ

Well Known Member
I was doing a bit of organizing preparing for Avionics install... I came across some long lost parts, the Mid Seat Rails support that you install outboard on top of the gear weldment.

Plans have you make them on Page 28-16 Step 1 and 2. States you set them aside until after the gear legs have been fitted and drilled. Well I did all that awhile back so I should probably go ahead and mount these, I can take a guess at the hardware but would rather see what the plans call for. Having problems finding that though... searched the Fuselage and Finishing PDFs... can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
 
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AN3-3A with std washer

I just installed mine after finding them on shelf as well. It gave about 2 theads showing past nyloc. I installed mine with nut on top, much easier. Note I could not find in build manual as well, but didn't spend alot of time looking.
 
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Thanks for the reminder... I think mine are still sitting on a shelf as well.
I also found F-1043D-R/L sitting on my shelf. On pg 39-8, it says "When F-1043D-L/R are later installed...", but searching through the PDF, I don't see it called out anywhere else.
 
Thanks for the reminder... I think mine are still sitting on a shelf as well.
I also found F-1043D-R/L sitting on my shelf. On pg 39-8, it says "When F-1043D-L/R are later installed...", but searching through the PDF, I don't see it called out anywhere else.

I think that's another missing step. I installed mine at the same time I installed a lot of the misc panels and covers that I had intentionally left off until I was ready to close everything up for good.
 
Figured it was just AN3's but wanted to be sure. Actually got the bolts and nuts on this morning, however tightening them is going to be a different beast all together. Might have to recruit my kids with their small hands.
 
Other way

Figured it was just AN3's but wanted to be sure. Actually got the bolts and nuts on this morning, however tightening them is going to be a different beast all together. Might have to recruit my kids with their small hands.

Justin, that?s why I installed with nylocs up. I was able to get the tips of my fingers to install the bolt up. I was going through your awesome build site. Are you going with the std vans cowl?
 
Justin, that?s why I installed with nylocs up. I was able to get the tips of my fingers to install the bolt up. I was going through your awesome build site. Are you going with the std vans cowl?

Yup this is with the nylocs up! I can't get the wrench underneath to hold the AN3. I've already recruited a friend to come by and with her small hands we should be able to get it done.

I am using a standard cowl, what a process it's been. My fault for doing so many mods but it's getting there. I sort of sidelined it to finish up the engine connections and some minor projects as well as start prepping the interior for Avionics which should be here in a month or so.

Glad to know people are looking at the site outside of family and friends!
 
I just finished this step and for the archives, I used AN3-4 bolts, a washer and lock nut.

They are some of the hardest bolts to get into place and tighten. I found it was best to put all each bolt in and only hand tighten the nut, then after all 4 are in place tighten them down for the final installation.
 
Very timely thread!

Great idea on the bottom-up approach. I don't see how you'd ever get the washers and nuts started on the bolts in the traditional top-down orientation.
Some of these are beyond the reach of even the slenderest fingertips, and groping with pliers is an exercise in frustration (tried that first). So - double-sticky tape on a tongue depressor is your friend when it comes to getting some of these in.





Leaving these loose till they're all in is a great tip, too. That allows you to cant the assembly to one side to lock the bolts in position one by one as you fit the washers and nuts on each without dropping it back through the hole.

For the holes near the forward edge of the gear tower, I found a magnet was helpful for extending my reach.



The hardest part of this task by far is tightening the bolts. It requires stubby wrenches, box ends ground down in thickness, and holding yourself in positions that are increasingly painful after more than a few moments (at my age, at least). I managed to get a socket wrench and a box end wrench both wedged into tight crevices and stuck onto the bolt heads so tightly it took a hammer to get them unstuck after the fasteners were snugged up. A trip to the grinder for more tool-thinning prevented a repeat of this snafu.

Budget about three hours for this handful of eight bolts. If it takes you less, you have my enduring respect - and you likely have some specialty tools I wish I'd known I was going to need today.

Also, plan on naproxen and a hot bath afterwards. Which coincidentally is where I'm headed. Too much fun for one day.
 
I forgot to ask:

Before I mount these seat rails, is there consensus on which side (inboard or outboard) it's best to have the seat slide adjuster and the seat back tilt adjuster on, respectively?

And I already know about the track notch mod for seat removal without bothering the flap torque tube covers. :D
 
Mid Seat Rail

Just our preference, I?ve got the seat rail adjustment on the outside of both front seats, also modified the attachment for the rail stop so only the stop (two longer bolts into nut plates) needs to be removed and not the adjuster, so all that works out better on the outside of the seats. Also fitted the after market seat adjustment levers which means the seats can be adjusted from the front of the seat instead of squeezing ones hand between the seat and the side of the cabin. (lot more user friendly for passengers cause it?s the same position as most cars). Originally had the seat back adjustment levers on the same side(outside) but because they were hard to access I?ve moved both to the tunnel side and reversed them both so they stick out toward the back seat rather than forward, because they are close to the tunnel there?s not much chance of accidental activation by back passengers or luggage and ?stuff? on the back floors, we find that that?s works a whole lot better for us, especially when the seat back needs to be folded forward for loading etc, just seems a lot easier to lean in to push the levers while on the wing. You can do the back fold lever relocating at anytime. Cheers from Western Australia
 
Tools

You might think its unusual to modify tools for a specific job but its not if one went to Boeing surplus years back they had bins full of odd looking devices that were made for one item. Sockets end wrenches and others with some welded together.
 
If your going to have any sort of center console you'll probably want the T handles on the outside. Otherwise I don't think it really matters, just personal preference.

Before I mount these seat rails, is there consensus on which side (inboard or outboard) it's best to have the seat slide adjuster and the seat back tilt adjuster on, respectively?

And I already know about the track notch mod for seat removal without bothering the flap torque tube covers. :D
 
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