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RV-8 Wings: What would you do differently if you had to build them again.

Dale Cross

I'm New Here
Hello all,

I am building an RV-8 in Ireland. This is my first time posting and it is inspired by Martin Leroux's recent question concerning the fuselage build. The feedback he got was great and I am hoping for some of the same! :)

I have a question to those who have built and are now operating a RV-8, or to those who have just completed building their RV-8 Wings.

The Question is: If you had to build another a set of RV-8 Wings, what would you do differently ? Any features you would add to improve the serviceability of your aircraft, and that would be easier to implement while you'd be building the wings? Any other suggestions ?

I have the wing kit and should be starting to work on it in the next week or two. In general I am planning wing tip lights and a heated pitot probe.

Thanks,

Dale Cross
 
Well, I'm not done, but. I learned by the second wing a better way to rivet the main ribs to the main (front) spar. It was much easier - especially at the closely spaced inner ribs - to lay the main spar face down with the ribs clecoed and pointing up from the bench. Either hang the part you're working on off the end of the bench or prop up on a couple of blocks to get the bucking bar under the front face of the spar. Rivet the wing walk area from inner ribs to the root one at a time to maximize easy access.

My biggest mistake was a slightly buggered rivet on one of the aileron brackets, which I buggered up worse when drilling it out. That is not an area you want to mess up and have to buy an new spar and all the attached parts. I fixed it after talking to Van's by adding the Service Bulletin kit for the bracket. I think I'd put those in on both sides anyway to beef up that area.

Happy building!
 
I would NOT use a 12" double offset back rivet set for the top skins. Could not get consistent shop heads. It broke so I started using swivel mushroom set with tungsten bucking bar. Much better plus gave experience for bottom skins later when you can't see what you are doing.
 
  1. Check the rear spar flange angle to be sure you won't end up with a "ski jump" after skinning. If you do, Van's has a tool to bend after the fact, but that would be a logistical pain considering your location.
  2. Buy the hinge material to do the wingtip hinge attach method.
  3. Install the roll servo bracket
  4. Install the pitot mount
  5. Drill all the extra conduit and wiring attach holes in the ribs
  6. Install deluxe fuel caps (I went with the non-locking)
  7. Buy the landing light kits if you are going that route.
  8. I liked the tubes of tank sealant rather than the can. Think I bought six or eight tubes. Worth the cost for me, much less mess and easier to control. I also used access panel sealant for the sender plates and sealed nutplates.
 
That thread title reminds me of something....

Hello !

I don't know why, but that thread title reminded me of something :rolleyes:

Being on Final Assy for the Fuselage, and with wings to build next, I was going to ask this question soon anyway. Glad you've asked before I did :)

As for the wings, based on what I've read here on VAF for RV-8 used in cold weather operation, I will make a blanking plate for the NACA duct under the wing, and install nutplates in the skin panel to hold this blanking plate in place. I'll do that because I will be flying in a cold climate (Eastern Canada), and I'd like to keep the cockpit warm by preventing cold air entering by the passenger air duct. Summer time, the blanking plate will be removed, and fresh air will flow again in the back seat area.

I will be following this thread with interest for sure !
 
Hello !

As for the wings, based on what I've read here on VAF for RV-8 used in cold weather operation, I will make a blanking plate for the NACA duct under the wing, and install nutplates in the skin panel to hold this blanking plate in place. I'll do that because I will be flying in a cold climate (Eastern Canada), and I'd like to keep the cockpit warm by preventing cold air entering by the passenger air duct. Summer time, the blanking plate will be removed, and fresh air will flow again in the back seat area.

Stein eyeball vents, no leaks... Option for air if you want it...

If you want good heat, seal the back of the canopy well and install mufflers with heat muffs... Search for details...
 
Fuel

Add larger fuel capacity. You will not regret it.

Easy to do if you haven't started building yet. Just order non punched tank
skins and extra tank ribs.

Fuel prices vary in my area by up to $1.00 a US gallon.
It's nice to be able to tanker extra when you can.

My 8 can take 32 US per side. When the wife says "I'm good", we go a long
way.



Carr
 
Do not waste time and trouble installing a flop tube, unless you plan on a real full-inverted system
 
Don't forget to check the plans for multiple layers when dimpling/countersinking, especially preparing a QB wing flap brace. Don't forget that you've got the hinge as part of the assembly, because the manual won't remind you. You want to dimple the top skin and countersink the middle layer (flap brace per plans; some builders sandwich the hinge). Do all drilling and mock up control surfaces before dimpling, deburring, priming and riveting. I'm sure you don't have to ask why this is on my mind right now... and it's not the first time. It will be remedied... but it's a pain.
 
Flap Hinges

Considering your location I would buy wider hinge material for the flaps. Many seem to need wider hinge material to maintain edge distance. I don't think the hinge material is very expensive and it might save you some freight dollars down the road.
 
Rear spar web.

If you don't have the kits for the service bulletin it would be easy to do the upgrade as you build the wings. You may never need the extra strength but it will be there and recorded in the log from then on. It is your call, but you may wish to look at SB-16-03-28 and give it thought.
Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
 
I didn't build my 8 but I'll give a +1 to deluxe fuel caps. The Vans standard caps are serviceable but a pain in the butt.
 
I would move the tie-down Rings further outboard. Most Airfield tie-down spaces have connections about 6 or 8 feet wide of the stock rings.
 
I would move the tie-down Rings further outboard. Most Airfield tie-down spaces have connections about 6 or 8 feet wide of the stock rings.

While this is possible, you will need to retain the tie down bracket's function of mounting the aileron bell crank nutplates.

One other suggestion. The plans call for countersinking the wing skins for the wing root fairing screws. I dimpled for #8 screw - the skin, the doubler and the rib, and used a dimpled screw nutplate. The skin dimple may need to be cleaned up a little with a deburring tool, but not much. It is hard to get a good countersink the skin for the dimpled wingroot fairing.

Carl
 
Thank you everyone for your inputs.

I will take time to digest your suggestions and decide which ones will work for me.

I just started countersinking the main spar flanges to accept the tank skin number 8 screws yesterday. I had read about difficulties here and had a friend get it wrong so I was terrified of screwing up the spar! All went well though and only about 100 left!
 
You bet.

That's what we are here for, fun and Flying. Always wanted to visit the island. I have heard that it very nice from the air and a good way to see it.
I have also heard the family name came over the pound from County Cork around 1693 or so. Keep going, you have the right idea and airplane to make us want to visit and fly along side some day. Yours as always, R.E.A. III #80888
 
Tank Z brackets

Having struggled with re-mounting tanks following a leak repair on my 9A, I wished that I had used floating nut plates on the Z brackets to overcome any mis- alignment I had inadvertently built in when drilling. It doesn't take much drill bit drift to create this and figured this was the way around this for any future builds.

So started my 8 wings and included this when I built the tanks. Major difference attaching and no mis-alignment issues. Holes in bracket slightly oversized to allow for movement of the floating threads.

Yeah I know measure six times and take your time. But for us less than perfect builders this is the bomb, especially if you need to remove/re-attach your tanks.

Flame suit on....
 
Pitot lines

As you are running the Pitot lines be sure that they do not run directly over the center of the bolts that hold the fuel tank brackets in place. If you ever need t remove the tanks this can be a added pain to removal and replacement of said bolts.
 
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