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VFR to Russia (In Memory of Bob Axsom)

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Hey pal, if this is the "Russian Bear" you speak of, he looks a bit thin? Our Bear is not impressed.
 
This thread is the only thing I look forward to reading on the Interwebs every day, just like Vlad's circumnavigation of the US was last summer.

What an incredible adventure!
 
Circle with a gun

I maybe wrong, but I interpret the circle with a gun sign as meaning security office..JMHO
 
Could be

Sig, could be Beretta; does not look like any Tokarev I've ever seen. Sign seems to imply that guns are good-to-go, but I'd be leery of a tarp :D
 
Scott

Aww, that isn't "that" much water... At least there aren't too many sharks in that water. I guess the cold would get you faster than the shark in the south. Just don't let darkness and clouds close in on you out there over the blue stuff below. Good job for not letting "auto rough" make your decisions.

What a great adventure! I like the format, knowing you're safe to talk about it.
It's not the Sharks, but the Polar Bears:p
 
Anadyr

The easternmost town of Russia is Anadyr. It has a rather large airport with a modern infrastructure. Working hours are 2100 to 0900 UTC. Controllers speak excellent English and most of the service personnel could clearly communicate with a foreigner.


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Clean contemporary terminal with all security measures plus some. The most inconvenience for a traveler is the time difference. I started my trip in Nome AK noonish and in 3.5 hours I flew into tomorrow's morning. So the total lag from EDT was 16 hours it throws out your circadian clock completely. It's one thing when you arrive commercially and go straight to the hotel to relax but if you do all logistics yourself it's overwhelming. I was looking a bit like a dummy although I spoke the language.

Transportation to the town consists of three modes. Total cost is $50 or whatever sum in roubles would it be. A group of passengers fill up a minivan and is driven to the shore where small hovercrafts are waiting. The same taxi company.

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The ride over the bay feels like driving an ATV.


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Upon reaching the shore (in 15 min or so) another van will drop you off at any point in town. My destination for the day was hotel Chukotka.


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A decent room not the most expensive suit costs 10,000 roubles per night (~$170 breakfast included). You may choose three meals a day there is a good restaurant/bar in the hotel but it would increase the cost considerably.

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Thank you, Vlad, for sharing the details of your trip. How incredibly inspiring for those of us in the final throes of building our own travelling machines!

As an aside, that looks an awful lot like a Garmin x96 GPS being used by the hovercraft captain. Isn't it amazing how those little devices pop up in the strangest of places?
 
A local airplane restorer and homebuilder Nikolay called me and invited to his shop. I was very tired and declined the offer. I am not going anywhere for three days plenty of time to visit. He agreed. Another local pilot I virtually knew was away to ferry a new amphibian. He also called and congratulated on making the journey. I walked to a supermarket then to the bank to get local currency then paid my fine I was ticketed at the airport. Then just dropped dead at the hotel.


Woke up past midnight couldn't sleep more. Weird feeling during polar day. Heavy curtains still leak daylight. After an hour of futile attempts to fall sleep again I quit. I took my camera and went outside. Past 2 am and sun is still there. Not a single soul around and it's Friday night. Weird place. Beautiful sightseeing.


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A movie theater.


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A local explorer statue and a gym.


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View to the East toward the airport.


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The other way is the deep sea port. Somebody is relaxing there not a bum that's for sure.


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Saint Nik meeting arriving ships.


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A Russian Orthodox Temple made without a single nail.


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Museum and Chukotka cultural Heritage building.


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Time flows slow in Russia. 3 am... 4 am... Man in New York a week probably has passed. I snoozed again...
 
very cool

Really enjoying this Vlad! I have Google maps and Wikipedia open following
and learning. Be safe!
 
My new friend Nikolay sent his buddy to pick me up at the hotel and drive to his shop. The driver gave me a nice guided tour of the town.


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On top of Verbluzhka (Camel Mtn) sits a communication center. There is no cable connection to the mainland from Anadyr. All comms are relayed either by the satellites or via giant troposphere repeaters I was told.


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A memorial to first explorers and heroes of Chukotka by the port.


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We stopped for a picture by the local attraction on the top of the mountain. There is a giant cross and you can see most of the town from there.


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Then we drove to Nikolay's shop. Let me tell you this man is a legend. Retired as a TV station tech he'd seen it all. He roamed the tundra in his own vezdehod design where only deer drivers could reach. I thoroughly enjoyed his tales going through his photo albums. He brought to his shop and now restoring a twin engine light amphibian aircraft. It will take for a while I am in the late seventies he said. He knows every Bear flying over. To keep tradition and propaganda going we celebrated our meetup.

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He grows his own veggies right by the shop. On permafrost.

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Well, the day ended elsewhere. The highlight of the evening was eating stroganina a dish of Chukchi people. Basically it's a deep frozen raw fish of certain kind. Very unusual taste at first then you will get used to it.


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If I survive till tomorrow I go to the Museum.
 
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I survived. Even managed to find my way to the hotel. Without any trouble and without knowledge of my "curator". (Those who visited Russia probably know that every foreigner traveling for several days without a tourist group or guides is "assigned" a plain clothed FSB officer. Just in case. This way no visitors get pick pocketed, eaten by the bears or harmed any other way. Especially within a security designated zones...)

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Next day I visited the Museum. It's located in a modern building and like most of local museums everywhere in the world is not crowded.


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Tickets are equivalent $5 for Russian citizens and $10 for foreigners. The photo shooting permit is another couple bucks.


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They have several unique exhibitions the most interesting I found were Alsib WWII ferry routes and indigenous population culture and living.


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Quite a mixture of the artifacts.


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The Commander of Alsib ferry division Col. Mazuruk. The bottom picture...

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There are still several WWII crash sites exist in the vicinities and this was the most recent item donated by the explorers.


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At the end of my museum tour I asked my guide, a pretty local lady to give me a paid city tour and she agreed. We walked for about two hours she is an encyclopedia of history. Fascinating tour I received. She refused the money but agreed to come for a dinner. Life was back to normal again...
 
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The morning after next I checked out of my fancy hotel and moved across the bay to Ugolnye Copi a satellite city. There was a layer of fog over the bay. What surprised me was the wind. Those hovercraft cabbies were sticking together barely making 10 knots. As soon as we landed there was nice and shiny on the opposite shore. Weird weather over the water.

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Ugolnie Copi is a settlement completely different from Anadyr. The population consists of mainly retired military types and blue collar workers. Their mentality differs they think Anadyr is a parasite city. Why? Because Anadyr only houses the offices of feds, region, local and multitude other government functionalities and it produces nothing. It consumes. On the contrary Ugolnie Copi have mines, electricity generating facilities and airport. There is no restaurants in town but you can order pizza by phone. There are no hotels as well those arriving by aircraft never stay at Ugolnie Copi everybody goes to Anadyr. For transient pilots there are couple fully furnished apartments for rent around $60 per night. I moved into one for one day but never slept in. This was my RV Hotel and a room with a view many thanks to my new friends. Alex special thanks to you and your father.


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There was a huge military presence here one time. After Gorbachev-Reagan Pact everything went downhill. We drove through an abandoned military base my companions (former servicemen of the same unit) were silent.


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A sprout of spirituality.


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A well preserved monument.


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Peace!


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Then we drove into tundra...


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Thanks for sharing!

I do not know you but I am living the dream reading each new entry.
Thank you for the time and effort it takes to document such an amazing trip.
Thank you! Larry
 
At the end of my museum tour I asked my guide, a pretty local lady to give me a paid city tour and she agreed. We walked for about two hours she is an encyclopedia of history. Fascinating tour I received. She refused the money but agreed to come for a dinner. Life was back to normal again...

I believe we know why there's a "placeholder" for the next installment. :D
 
Non Russian Speaking

How hard would it be for a non Russian speaker (english only) to do the same visit? Do many speak english or none at all, other than controllers?
 
I believe we know why there's a "placeholder" for the next installment. :D

Don,
If you are thinking what I am thinking then it's not. There was no night at the Museum. We both cared about reputation of our countries. :D

How hard would it be for a non Russian speaker (english only) to do the same visit? Do many speak english or none at all, other than controllers?

Steve it's surely possible. Not hard at all as I see it. Young generation of Russians can communicate in English clearly. The older folks, well, they are kind of like Russian Jews on Brighton Beach of Brooklyn - "we are here for 40 years and Americans still don't speak Russian?!.."

This particular destination (Anadyr) is off mainstream tourist track and requires a bit of coordination. If it's just a check off the bucket list I would recommend to shoot farther to Magadan or ever Khabarovsk. Larger cities with a lot of things to see and explore and no need for special permit in addition to the visa. If you are truly interested in the history and learn at least couple phrases in Russian out of respect you would be treated royally everywhere. Good people there, educated and very friendly.


Vlad, did you check out the movie posters to see what was playing?:D

I actually did Tom. There was a Russian love story and Cars3. I was planning to go but time was in short supply. :)
 
New Horizons

Vlad,

Now that you are our master trail blazer going west, Mark for flying back and forth to Europe and Rosie and crew for the Caribbean. All that is required is a little patience and planning, and a few dollars more. But we can just about go anywhere with standard fuel tanks in our "Experimental Aircraft".

Thanks to all for allowing me to live vicariously thru your travels and escapades.
 
Hello Vlad!
What a wonderful trip!
I remember Anadyr runway and how I flew over Nome in 1991! Although the best memory of Anadyr is the most delicious blackberries which I could eat anywhere, just drop on your knees and scoop them.

The Commander of Alsib ferry division Col. Mazuruk. The bottom picture...

My great grand father knew Colonel Mazuruk. :)

Oh, and we sometimes make stroganina here in South Carolina when I get a very fresh fish. :)

Hey. lots of tail winds!
 
Great reading Vlad!
Definately "off the beaten path".

What did they think about you flying your little homebuilt all the way from New Jersey?

I'm looking forward to the finale "Vlad, Back in the USA":D
 
Just amazing!

Thanks for telling your story, it's the highlight of my day!

Just amazing that you do this VFR. It inspires me to go a little outside my own comfort zone, even if its just a 100 mile cross-country flight.

Thanks again!

Jeff
 
Time flies...

Back in the days when Smokey was young there were nukes hidden in those mountains. The infrastructure is still there in the granite.

Ouch...
translation: Ой!

V/R :)
Smokey

PS: Old age and treachery wins over youth and enthusiasm every time...
Jimmy Doolittle


PSS: My RV4 turns 20 this week...
 
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Truly inspiring...

I have to admit after an 8 year build I am loosing my motivation at times.

But when i read an article like this it inspires one.

This is truly the most amazing journey and to a country I had thought much more backward in development than the west. This western myth is blasted away by great scenery, lovely buildings, and people who treat you with respect and accommodating a foreign language! Does it get any better?

I must visit Russia one day!

Thanks Vlad, one day i hope to meet you perhaps when.... if ever.. i get this bird of mine in the air.

Dave
 
On June the 20th we drove to tundra. What a perfect day to hit 55! Somewhere on a hill only locals know we stopped, uncorked a bottle of good cognac, left a drink for God of Tundra and asked Him for good weather on my way home.


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Then we drove another hour or so. Passed couple of abandoned fortifications. It blows your mind thinking who the heck would be invading this uninhabited tundra.


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There was even a tank battalion stationed here.


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The majority of the weaponry was transported to continental Russia but some were destroyed. Once in several years there are reunions of those who served here you can see it.


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On the way back we stopped by the coast and watched the fishermen. This fish is koryushka very tasty when fried. My restaurant in the hotel had it on the menu. Highly recommended.


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A visit to coal mine was fun. They have some fun arts at the rear of the mine garage.


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Then we looked over couple of all terrain vehicles


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and swing by the airport to take a look if my RV is still there. And there she was not flying for 4 days.


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Tomorrow we go home. VFR flight plan is filed and this time I have a confirmation that at least part of it will be over the land.


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Hello Vlad,

Incredibly absolutely unbelievable your Trip(s)

For me is incomprehensible how can you Fly around the half Planet with your RV9....

I know the (all RV's) the 9 is a graet Travel Plane.. i love my too, but......

Russia is not "so far" from Austria.....ist it also on your Travel Plan ? :)

greetings
Manfred
 
So that tank was de-mil'ed on purpose

My first thought was a loader got to working too fast in the heat of battle and did a double-feed. Tanker's equivalent of Glock-leg :p

It's nice to read this knowing you are safely home and will be dropping in to see us this Saturday.
 
Met classmate haven't seen since 1985

I left my transit pilot crashpad early morning on June 21st.

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An airport official/handler picked me up and drove to the main terminal. He also facilitated to purchase 95 octane car gas I needed about 100 liters. I tanked a jar can of 100LL avgas from Nome as an octane booster. I was given a driver and a bunch of extra gas cans and a funnel with filter. We made a quick run to the pump in town and I was all set with fuel.

Formalities were quick, passport stamped and I was escorted to my airplane. I still had 20 minutes before my departure slot. There was no farewell delegation with fanfares but rather several border patrol soldiers and an officer. I did my preflight check and boarded the aircraft to get the ATIS.

Nearby a local ChukotAvia turboprop almost finished boarding his passengers. I see a crewmember walking from the Antonov turboprop toward my airplane. The guards are telling him not to proceed the man is still walking doesn't pay attention. 5 minutes to my start time. The man yells - Slaffka! Karpaeff! Sure I am and who are you? (all talk in Russian) I am Maslow! Sergey really?! Unbelievable... My classmate from military flight school we graduated in 1985 and haven's seen each other since. He was one of those champions ready to jump on Smokey's squadron mates if allowed...

I deplane quickly we hug, exchange couple phrases, I asked guards if I can use my camera. Niet. Then the officer asks for our smart phones and does couple quick pictures. Sergey rushes to his commuter and I am almost at start time. I yell to him about a spare frequency air-to-air but he doesn't hear...


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... Triple Six Bravo Kilo it's Anadyr Start your time is almost up. Sure I am ready with information... Would you accept departure from Taxiway 1? Sure but I need a progressive on back taxi I can't see it. No problem, you are now abeam Taxiway 1 and you are clear for takeoff 19 have a good flight!


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A heavy helicopter goes right after me then Sergey's turboprop. You can see them on the runway.


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I switch to the departure frequency and climb to my assigned 11,000 feet. Still can't believe I met somebody I knew within last minutes. Small world very small. 20 minutes into flight when radar coverage is lost Magadan Control tells me to switch to 134.0 on second radio if able. For about an hour Sergey and I were talking air-to-air. Interrupting at compulsory reporting points to respective Centers. The essence of the story is he retired from AF and flies local bush. He saw the little RV sitting on tarmac for several days then he asked whose tin can is that? Was told a Russian speaking pilot visiting from USA. Asked the authorities who... They were heading to Lavrentiya higher and via local airways. I was going international low and over the water. At least I have somebody to talk to over that freezing Bering Sea. I learned that some of our classmates were missing from the school phalanx. I told him I am planning an RTW by the time of our next reunion...

Short story long I asked Sergey if his radar can see any bad weather by Nome, AK TAFs were rather gloomy. But his radar couldn't paint that far. I guess it's even better not knowing for now what crud I will enter at home. :D
 
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Great trip and write-up. Love that you caught up with Sergey.
The remote parts of Siberia look fantastic.
 
Hello Vlad,

Incredibly absolutely unbelievable your Trip(s)

For me is incomprehensible how can you Fly around the half Planet with your RV9....

I know the (all RV's) the 9 is a graet Travel Plane.. i love my too, but......

Russia is not "so far" from Austria.....ist it also on your Travel Plan ? :)

greetings
Manfred
If you want to read a really spectacular story about flying from the US to Australia, this is a story of a family of five that flew from Boston to Australia through Europe, the Middle East, down through South East Asia and on to Australia. I was 10 years old when I watched them depart from the airport just miles from my child hood home. The pilot Robin, was a co-worker and good friend of my fathers and their entire family close friends. Robin was also one of the inspirations that motivated me to eventually fly. I believe they are the only family to date to have completed this journey.

https://www.amazon.com/VirginiaS-Di...=1499908433&sr=8-12&keywords=virginia's+diary
 
The most interesting man in the world...

Vlad, I'm pretty sure if Dos Equis monitored this forum that you would be "the most interesting man in the world." They would sponsor all your adventures!

Michael-
 
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Vlad, I'm pretty sure if Dos Equis monitored this forum that you would be "the most interesting man in the world." They would sponsor all your adventures!

Michael-

Time for a repeat from an earlier Vlad adventure post:

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Again, thanks Vlad!
 
Book?

This story would make for a great book. Title already made "VFR to Russia".

Great story, i'll pop out of my chair at work and tell people about this amazing Man who is flying the same plane as mine to Russia, then pull up google maps and show them the route. Exciting for me at least!
 
Back into Yesterday

An hour over the water flew faster then I thought. Over Provideniya I turned northeast and was headed toward BATNI intersection. Stellar weather beautiful views.


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Provideniya.


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Tracking the Russian shoreline.


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Lavrentia. Sergey's turboprop commuter is still there they will take off going back to Anadyr in 30 minutes.


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A fun episode here over Lavrentia. Magadan Control hands me off to Lavrentiya Tower and advises to speak Russian. No problem or so I thought.
"November666BK здравствуйте, на связи эшелон 110." Roger. The thing is it's very difficult to communicate in foreign aviation lingo if you are not using it constantly. Even simple phrases it's a different format. I made my reports and before checking out Lavrentiya Tower gave me a lecture (in Russian). "Nikolay 666 Boris Katerina just be advised there is no English speaking services here. Yes, we accommodate accidental traffic from your side but I am personally not authorized to speak English. I do have an ICAO level though..." That was an interesting conversation. It also sheds light on why I was turned out to enter Russian airspace here.


After I crossed the ADIZ the weather changed dramatically. Nome was locked under solid 5000' layer and incoming IFR traffic was crazy. I still had about 2 hours of fuel left and could reach anywhere with good weather. Let's see what we can do.


It's actually a good thing to have an IFR capable aircraft with FIKI. A smart guy who just popped out of the clouds heard my communication with ATC and asked why can't I just shoot at approach. Wise controller said I am not equipped and asked an arriving Bering Air to take a look around if there are any openings. The kid asked if I have a map ready. Sure. Go to Kugluktuk mountains there is a huge swamp and it's clear over there. Then the controller chimes in - there is a road to Nome as soon as you can maintain VFR over it give me a call couple minutes out we'll see what we can do for you.

Different world is Alaska let me tell you. Everybody helps nobody ever left behind. So I fly 50 miles north, drop down through the hole and drive along the road. A herd of muskoxen didn't care.

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I monitor Nome radio, hold couple minutes outside the surface area over a dredge then after a military aircraft goes on a training missed approach, I insert myself into the radio chatter. Controller asks Alaska Airlines to hold short for a minute, I read back my special VFR instructions then plop on the numbers of runway 21 and exit quickly. Everybody is accommodated everybody is happy. Hello home!

I flew back into the Yesterday and I had a birthday again. I will stay here for another day then start trekking east leasurely I still have a week of vacation to burn...

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Place Holder

Way back on your tundra tour, I think the place holder was revealed.

That "Roses in Gun" or "Guns & Roses" photo could become a very iconic photo.

I bet you could get paid quite nicely by National Geographic for this trip write up. Also a few aviation rags would jump at a chance to have your riveting write up in print.

Good Luck !
 
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I had a Russian tell me once

"For the sins of the Russian people, God gave us Christ. For our continued rebellion He gave us the Cyrillic alphabet..."

At least that's how I remember the interpreter handling it. And after two weeks in Sankte Peterborg staring at Russian signage, I think I got the joke :D
 
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My classmate from military flight school we graduated in 1985 and haven's seen each other since. He was one of those champions ready to jump on Smokey's squadron mates if allowed...

I learned that some of our classmates were missing from the school phalanx. I told him I am planning an RTW by the time of our next reunion...
D

Vlad,
The brotherhood....never changes.
16 of my classmates have gone west, 8 prior to their 40th birthday.

Your Reunion sounds like another RV9 Russian Epic, think you should attend..:)
V/R
Smokey
 
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