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DRDT-2's Helping Builders Dimple

Pmerems

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Congratulations to Tom Maxwell!
DRDT-2-200TH.jpg
"With help from instructors Mike Crowe and Jacob Biang, Tom Maxwell has become the 200th person to complete his tail group at the RV Sheet Metal Workshop." Notice the DRDT-2 in the photo. (I honestly had nothing to do with this picture.)

DRDT-2?s are in use in builder assistance workshops and aircraft repair facilities across the country. Several DRDT-2?s have been put into service in an aircraft factory in Europe and countless DRDT-2?s are in builder?s shops around the world helping them build their dream. :)

DRDT-2 owners, please provide feedback on your experiences with the tool so that other builders who have not used the DRDT-2 may benifit. Be honest with the good, the bad and the ugly. Hopefully not too much bad and ugly. :eek:
 
DRDT-2 Dimpler

I just finished the emennage for my RV-9 and used the DRDT for the entire assembly. When I purchased a tool kit from Cleveland I ordered it without the C-frame and bought the DRDT direct. I therefore don't have much experience with the C-frame. I can tell you that I love the DRDT. I bought the entire unit with front end and frame. The tube steel frame is quality made and has a great powder coat finish. I easily dimpled all of the empenage skins myself by holding the sheet metal with one hand running the dimpler with the other. You can really do some fast dimpling on skins. I made a nice carpeted table per the instructions that came with the dimpler. I'll probably need to enlarge the table for the wing skins. I still mount the Cleveland hand squeezer in the vice to dimple ribs though. It seems like the cost for the entire unit was only about $100 than a C-frame. When you figure that your spending $2000 on starter tools, what's another $100 for no noise dimpling without a sore elbow! I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND the DRDT-2 Dimpler.
 
I am a very satisfied customer

I bought one last month. When i ordered there was a waiting list and Paul built, packed, and shipped the unit faster than I expected. The packing job was very professional and the instructions for assembly were well laid out and easy to understand. I was able to start dimpling like an assembly line within an hour of delivery. Every handle pull is a perfect dimple - even my 10 year old can do it with consistent results. With really large skins it helps to have someone else positioned to pull the handle - I have short arms (ok., I have short legs and body too ..._). I recommend the tool and Paul's service to any builder wanting to really speed up and almost automate one of the more mundane tasks - dimpling 500 holes in each wing. You can see my -10 project, with the tool, at: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jrdalton&project=120
 
Product add-on idea?

After leaving my post I thought that maybe an optional "extension" handle would be a possible product idea. Some of the skins are large and it's difficult to work alone (if with long arms) and reach the handle if the skin is very wide. Maybe a handle that could slip on the shorter on temporarily?

Hey, I know, I have a TON of aluminum sitting around in my shop ....
 
Another DRDT-2 Fan

I have nothing but good words to add about the DRDT-2. Great tool. Well built and well worth it. I pictured my clobbering a skin with the hammer and the C frame! Dimpling is very well controlled with the DRDT-2. Didn't even dimple a finger........

Also, enjoyed meeting Paul. Ya oughta see this guy's workshop- and nearly completed RV-7.

Roger
RV-9 Empennage
 
I wasn't number 200 with Jacob or Mike but I have used and because of, bought a DRDT-2. I can't wait to use it again. I have nothing but praise for the unit.
 
Drdt2

Paul,

See my post of tonight labeled Drdt2. Posted just minutes before this thread began. I am very pleased with the DRDT2 and will retire the c frame dimpler as of today!!!

Thanks,
 
Mine

Actually, I am somewhat embarassed by all of the press this picture and article is getting.

But just to comment on the DRDT-2, the one in this picture is mine and I took it with me to the Alexander center. Their philosophy is, "We have all of the tools, but if you want to bring yours to get accustomed to them, bring em on." Having it in the picture is just a coincidence but that doesn't deminish the usefullness of this tool.

Jacob graciously found a couple of clamps and clamped my DRDT-2 down on a spare table. I used it quite extensively on airframe parts but not much on the skins. The center has a DRDT-1 with a very nice and large surrounding table that worked great for the skins. I am sure the 2 will work just as nicely on the skins once I get it bolted down and a table built around it.

The DRDT is (are) definitely nicely made. They are very heavy duty and work smoothly. Mike and Jacob played with my 2 while I was at the center and they both think it is a nice tool as well. After using it, I can't imagine standing around smashing a C-Frame with a hammer all afternoon. The 2 is very smooth, accurate, and quiet.

My only niggle is that I would prefer a little more spring tension to facilate a more positive return of the handle away from the skin. The set-up, as I received it, has just enough spring tension to hold the handle in a static position. There isn't enough tension to raise the handle and the die away from the skin. It works fine as is, but it does require a positive force to raise the handle. I will tighten the springs just a little to give them a little more umph.

Overall a great product that I am happy I purchased. It will get a lot of use on my SB project.

Now enough with the picture already, OK! :eek:
 
pleased also

I ordered my tool kit from Isham's at the beginning of December and went with the free DRDT-2 upgrade. I've seen but not used a C-frame, but can definately say I am well please with the DRDT-2! It's quiet, (keeps the wife happy) consistent, (keeps me happy) and very fast. I dimpled the elevator skins in about 10 minutes with my wife to help hold the sheets. About 5 minutes per. I'm totally happy that decided on this tool.
 
DRDT2 Dimpler

I have used a "c" frame dippler and although it worked well , it was slightly awkward. This experence was at a work shop (which I reccomend). The drdt2 dimple tool has had nothing but great reviews, I plan on ordering it with an Avery kit tomorrow. Benches are almost complete, tools on order soon...
 
Drdt-2

Hi folks. I started with a regular c-frame and then bought the DRDT-2. It is a great piece of equipement-sturdy and well built. I constructed a bed for it, that really makes skin dimpling a breeze. I will give the c-frame to anyone who wants to haul it off.

Michael Wynn
RV 8
Wings
 
Tom Maxwell said:
My only niggle is that I would prefer a little more spring tension to facilate a more positive return of the handle away from the skin. The set-up, as I received it, has just enough spring tension to hold the handle in a static position. There isn't enough tension to raise the handle and the die away from the skin. It works fine as is, but it does require a positive force to raise the handle. I will tighten the springs just a little to give them a little more umph.

:eek:

Tom,
Please wait until you have done a lot more dimpling before changing the springs. I think Paul got it perfect. It allows you to keep the male dimple die close to the skin on top and you can easily see the pilot in the aluminum reflection for alignment. With the die and handle all the way up, you miss that and have to do alignment on the way down. As a result, the current installed springs make the job go WAY faster.

PAUL,
There IS one thing that could be added, if you choose, that would eliminate an annoyance for me and maybe others. I think there needs to be a 1/4" hole on the bottom jaw, centered under the die. This would allow the use of a pin punch to remove stubborn (tight) dies from the die block.

I know I could squeeze the springs on my 3/16 die studs to loosen then up, but I prefer them snug when used in my hand squeezer.
 
DRDT-2 Experience

I bought the front end kit from Paul and over thanksgiving last year, my brother and I fabricated the frame for it. We were unable to find any scrap 3x6 tubing in the area and to purchase it new would have cost enough to make the self fabricated version not worth the effort.
We did find some 4x8 tubing with the same wall thickness called out in the fabrication prints and the price for a seven foot length of it was only $18.

I now have a DRDT-2 on steroids! :D
A quick, back of the envelope, calculation shows it to have literally 1/3 the deflection of the standard DRDT-2!

It's a great tool and well worth the investment!

-Mike
 
Alignment

So far I have found that putting the male die on the bottom works best and provides a more positive method of alignment. With the male die in the bottom it is simply a matter of slightly lifting the skin, sliding it until the next hole drops down onto the die, and then pull the handle. Trying to move a skin around to match the female die on the bottom is doable but then you are stuck with moving the skin while pulling the handle which is not as smooth and I think leaves room for more error. I have found that having the male die on the bottom is much quicker and much easier to get into a rhythm without worrying about punching an extra hole. Lift - slide - drop - pull, lift - slide - drop - pull.

You may be correct and I may not like the additional pull, I am goint to rig a piece of surgical tubing to add a little more pull and see if I actually do prefer it that way or not.
 
rzbill said:
There IS one thing that could be added, if you choose, that would eliminate an annoyance for me and maybe others. I think there needs to be a 1/4" hole on the bottom jaw, centered under the die. This would allow the use of a pin punch to remove stubborn (tight) dies from the die block.

I second that.
 
Tom Maxwell said:
So far I have found that putting the male die on the bottom works best and provides a more positive method of alignment. With the male die in the bottom it is simply a matter of slightly lifting the skin, sliding it until the next hole drops down onto the die, and then pull the handle.

True enough, Tom. As you move further though the construction, you will (if you have not already) find times that you need the male on top or on the bottom depending on the situation and your preferences, of course. For big skins, I prefer the male on top because there is 100% less chance of a burnish mark (can't really call it a scratch) from the skin sliding on the pilot (by accident, surely :D ). Many other parts, such as ribs, demand male on top just because the part geometry won't fit on the DRDT-2 any other way.

FYI. Please do the LE and tank skins with male on top. You will fight the machine otherwise. I started with male on bottom for a couple of holes and was bitching about how hard it was to hold everything and bow the skin open at the same time. I stepped back and said "DUH! Turn this over so it actually fits around the bottom jaw as Paul intended!" Afterwards it was a breeze!
 
rzbill said:
PAUL,
There IS one thing that could be added, if you choose, that would eliminate an annoyance for me and maybe others. I think there needs to be a 1/4" hole on the bottom jaw, centered under the die. This would allow the use of a pin punch to remove stubborn (tight) dies from the die block.

I know I could squeeze the springs on my 3/16 die studs to loosen then up, but I prefer them snug when used in my hand squeezer.
FlyerJumper said:
I second that.

I "third" that. Although I usually just use a flat headed screwdriver to pry the bottom die off. (This really only matters for the 3/32--all the others are big enough that I can grab them with my fingers and pull them off.) Good suggestion for an improvement on an absolutely great tool. Easily my favorite tool and a big time and ear saver.
 
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I used the classic C-frame dimpler at a builder's workshop, but bought the DRDT-2. I find I can work the DRDT-2 with my right hand, and use my left hand to manipulate the skin I'm dimpling. It must cut my time in half. You can't use it to set a rivet, but that's a small price to pay for the ergonomics of the tool.

Tom Costanza
RV-7A
Wings
 
One small change I made

One thing I did after the first session using my DRDT-2 was to remove the grip that came with it and replace it with a good motorcycle grip that is much softer and more comfortable.

The grip was one that Ihad taken off one of my motorcyles so the cost for me was $0. If I hadn;t had one I would have went and bought one. Pretty simple but made my favorite tool even better. :)
 
dimensions for the DRDT2

I'm currently building a bench fir the DRDT2 but haven't ordered the tool yet. Is there anyone that can share the dimensions. Length, width, height and height from the bottom to the top of the dimple surface. I plan on making the dimple surface flush with the top of the work bench. Has anybody done it this way? and do we think it will work well this way...
 
Table Diagram

The DRDT-2 comes with a diagram for constucting a very nice table. I could post it here but I won't because it is not mine to post and I respect proprietary property. Perhaps you could write to Paul at Experimento Aero and he will send it to you. Or just order the dimpler - you'll eventually do it anyway :) - and the plans will be included.
 
Oh, Go on!

Hey, this is easy experimentation time, gents! :D Get used to making tools! I think it happens a lot. Make a table to fit your shop and situation. I made one with scrap I had on hand that serves as a handy movable table and parts stacking spot while not in use as a dimpler.

DRDT-2

It's set up like a wheelbarrow with solid feet under the dimpler but easy to lift the left side and wheel around the shop. Some big skins need extra support so I can drive it over next to my main work table. I'm trying to follow the Tony Bingelis advice of putting EVERYTHING on wheels. I've found it to be good practice.

If you design your own, keep in mind dimpling LE skins. Let the nose of the DRDT-2 stick out as far as you can from any support structure.
 
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If you do build a table for the DRDT2, I would HIGHLY recommend building 2 separate platforms (right and left) and not connect them together as Paul Merem's plans suggest. So many times I have moved just one side of the table closer in or farther out to support the large, sometimes unwieldy skins we are dimpling. A fixed or joined table will not allow you to do this.

Building the DRDT2 into a bench might work OK, but Pauls plans for the table (without actually connecting both halves together) is also a pretty elegant, versatile solution. You will be doing a lot of dimplying of ribs. A built in version would likely limit your ability to do this well.

Just my thoughts... good luck.
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
If you do build a table for the DRDT2, I would HIGHLY recommend building 2 separate platforms (right and left) and not connect them together as Paul Merem's plans suggest. So many times I have moved just one side of the table closer in or farther out to support the large, sometimes unwieldy skins we are dimpling. A fixed or joined table will not allow you to do this.

Building the DRDT2 into a bench might work OK, but Pauls plans for the table (without actually connecting both halves together) is also a pretty elegant, versatile solution. You will be doing a lot of dimplying of ribs. A built in version would likely limit your ability to do this well.

Just my thoughts... good luck.

Absolutely. I was going to recommend this also. Having seperate platforms is VERY convenient.
 
"Binford 2000"

Fellow DRDT-2 owners or possible future owners,

I just received an email that I thougth I would share with you.

Paul,

Got the DRDT-2 a few weeks ago and just wanted to say thanks for a great product. Really well done, first rate product and great packing for shipping too!

Also wanted to tell you I took the EAA RV workshop with Dan Checkoway in Chino last weekend. Not having my tail kit yet, I lugged the DRDT-2 out there to try it out and to share with he class. Big success, worked great for me and the others in class loved it as well. It was funny to watch, at first the others kind turned their nose up at it with comments like, "it's just a big C-frame" or "how much was THAT?" They all started out using the c-frame, banging away with he mallet. As I started dimpling, Dan pointed out the silent operation, at that point a lot of lightbulbs went on. From then on the migration to the DRDT began. It was dubbed the 'Binford 2000' dimpler. Well received and I spread the word on the quality of the product and your great support and shipping. Hope it helped, a bunch of the students said they would definitely be buying one soon.


Once again I want to thank all of the DRDT-2 owners for helping "educate" others on the merits of the tool. :)

I am proud that the tool has been dubbed the "Binford 2000". Maybe Binford could sponser a flight team of RV's? Who is up to the challenge? :rolleyes:
 
Drdt-2 Dimensions

Chad,
Thank You For The 2 Files On Thr Drdt-2. They Have All I Need For The Height From The Work Bench. After Hearing The Other Ideas About Possibly Limiting My Ability For The Ribs, I Have Changed My Idea With Mounting It Flush With The Work Bench. Sounds Like The Best Way Is With The Moving Tables. It Will Be The Best Of All Worlds. Thanks Again All For The Input. This A Great Web Site :)
 
T.O.Craig said:
Chad,
Thank You For The 2 Files On Thr Drdt-2. They Have All I Need For The Height From The Work Bench. After Hearing The Other Ideas About Possibly Limiting My Ability For The Ribs, I Have Changed My Idea With Mounting It Flush With The Work Bench. Sounds Like The Best Way Is With The Moving Tables. It Will Be The Best Of All Worlds. Thanks Again All For The Input. This A Great Web Site :)
Wow Typing In Caps All The Time Hurts My Eyes!

EDIT: sorry, this sounded MUCH worse then I orginally intended. I just got and instant headache whenever I read this post... don't know why... Again sorry for the inappropriate comments.
 
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