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Has anyone used Locktite 290 to try and seal the sightglass leaks?
Van's Air Force
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Fuel Tank Sightglass Leak
- Thread starter [email protected]
- Start date
Need more info - -
Just building the tank ? Flying for a while ? Updated window kit ? More than one attempt ?
I sealed up the window and installed a Moeller Marine mechanical fuel gauge, and many have copied my design. It works well.
John Bender
373.8 hours as of 3-9-12
Just building the tank ? Flying for a while ? Updated window kit ? More than one attempt ?
I sealed up the window and installed a Moeller Marine mechanical fuel gauge, and many have copied my design. It works well.
John Bender
373.8 hours as of 3-9-12
tim walter
Well Known Member
vans should change the rv-12 tank
if many of the sight glasses are leaking
then surely this is a serious problem?
shouldn't vans then issue a service note, and update the design?
the moller guage idea seems to be working, why can't vans change to THAT design, then people like me, building ELSA, won't have to build the **** tank twice !
you know I'm going to be making that mod as soon as I get it flying.
and I bet a lot of other builders are too.
This doesn't just seem like a "nice to have" to me.
fuel in the cockpit is a SERIOUS problem.
if many of the sight glasses are leaking
then surely this is a serious problem?
shouldn't vans then issue a service note, and update the design?
the moller guage idea seems to be working, why can't vans change to THAT design, then people like me, building ELSA, won't have to build the **** tank twice !
you know I'm going to be making that mod as soon as I get it flying.
and I bet a lot of other builders are too.
This doesn't just seem like a "nice to have" to me.
fuel in the cockpit is a SERIOUS problem.
DonFromTX
Well Known Member
Back when I was building ELSA, I asked Vans for written permission to install the Moeller gauge, since I did not want to contaminate my tank later. They would not give me that permission, but they did give me permission to cut the hole, install the nutplates, and then cut a disc to seal it up until the inspection was over. At that time you could unscrew the plate and install the Moeller in a very few minutes time and trouble - and most importantly not contaminating the fuel system doing it. Something to think about..
[email protected]
Member
Fuel tank leak fix?
1st attempt to build tank, no leaks but window. Has anyone tried the locktite 290 Fix?:
1st attempt to build tank, no leaks but window. Has anyone tried the locktite 290 Fix?:
Locktite 290 and sight window comment...
A leaking sight window in a new built tank is certainly a dissappointment, but can be fixed properly. Locktite 290 is probably not a good idea. Looking at the technical data sheet for this product http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_GREEN_tds.pdf, it is intended for locking and sealing metal fasteners. There is no application listed similar to fixing a proseal leak. It is a wicking product which sounds like the easy way out, but may in the end cause a lot more grief if it only fixes the leak for an air test, and then you have to pull the tank out of the airplane for the correct fix.
I'll bet that the consensus will be to pull the top off the tank and reinstall the window being extremely careful to follow the plans exactly and work carefully.
For those new and potential builders, there have been no reports of leaking sight glass windows since Van's issued the service notice to repair the original sight window design which did have leak issues. This is the first report of a leaking window that I recall being posted and it is during test of a new tank and not a leaking window in a flying aircraft. There are not a lot of 12s flying around with leaking sight glass windows. There is no evidence that the window is a leak problem that must be fixed by deleting the window.
Most GA aircraft have fuel tanks where the pilot is able to see the actual fuel in the tank prior to flight. This may be a condition of the ASTM standard that the 12 complies with. Without the sight window, this would not be possible.
The installation of a mechanical gauge in the tank looks like a substitute for the window but it really is not and it is a mechanical device (for boats) that can hang up, although that has not been reported. Just saying...
Personally, I like the sight glass. No moving parts, and you can see the actual fuel in the tank during preflight.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to state that the tank window is not a leak problem flying around in all these 12s and that the original problem was re-engineered and fixed by the factory long ago.
For those still in doubt about the window, do a search of the forum posts and do the research.
Tony
A leaking sight window in a new built tank is certainly a dissappointment, but can be fixed properly. Locktite 290 is probably not a good idea. Looking at the technical data sheet for this product http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_GREEN_tds.pdf, it is intended for locking and sealing metal fasteners. There is no application listed similar to fixing a proseal leak. It is a wicking product which sounds like the easy way out, but may in the end cause a lot more grief if it only fixes the leak for an air test, and then you have to pull the tank out of the airplane for the correct fix.
I'll bet that the consensus will be to pull the top off the tank and reinstall the window being extremely careful to follow the plans exactly and work carefully.
For those new and potential builders, there have been no reports of leaking sight glass windows since Van's issued the service notice to repair the original sight window design which did have leak issues. This is the first report of a leaking window that I recall being posted and it is during test of a new tank and not a leaking window in a flying aircraft. There are not a lot of 12s flying around with leaking sight glass windows. There is no evidence that the window is a leak problem that must be fixed by deleting the window.
Most GA aircraft have fuel tanks where the pilot is able to see the actual fuel in the tank prior to flight. This may be a condition of the ASTM standard that the 12 complies with. Without the sight window, this would not be possible.
The installation of a mechanical gauge in the tank looks like a substitute for the window but it really is not and it is a mechanical device (for boats) that can hang up, although that has not been reported. Just saying...
Personally, I like the sight glass. No moving parts, and you can see the actual fuel in the tank during preflight.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to state that the tank window is not a leak problem flying around in all these 12s and that the original problem was re-engineered and fixed by the factory long ago.
For those still in doubt about the window, do a search of the forum posts and do the research.
Tony
Last edited:
[email protected]
Member
Fuel tank fix
According to the Fuel Tank Test Kit last paragraph you may try Locktite #290 as it will wick into small places and cure.
So back to the origional queston has anyone tried this on the leak on a sight glass window?
According to the Fuel Tank Test Kit last paragraph you may try Locktite #290 as it will wick into small places and cure.
So back to the origional queston has anyone tried this on the leak on a sight glass window?
The instructions supplied with the test kit were generic based on using it with metal tanks like all different RV models have.
The compatibility of loctite 290 has never been tested with the site glass material (as far as I am aware) so it might be risky using it without doing a test first.
[email protected]
Member
Test
So, I guess I am doing the first test!
So, I guess I am doing the first test!
[email protected]
Member
Test
So, I guess I am doing the first test!
So, I guess I am doing the first test!
Bear Creek Skunkworks
Active Member
[email protected]
Member
Thanks
Will try the diluted proseal if locktite does not work. Thanks.
Will try the diluted proseal if locktite does not work. Thanks.
Keith Williams
Well Known Member
Type A Proseal
Great timing for this thread. Just tested my tank and found no sight-glass leaks but one rivet (of the many rivets and seams) is making a slow bubble, right where the shank broke off.
Was about to try green loctite. I like the sound of Terry's suggestion but would like to try it with diluted type B proseal, backed up with some regular proseal afterwards.
Anyone with thoughts about that?
Keith W.
Milan, IL
Great timing for this thread. Just tested my tank and found no sight-glass leaks but one rivet (of the many rivets and seams) is making a slow bubble, right where the shank broke off.
Was about to try green loctite. I like the sound of Terry's suggestion but would like to try it with diluted type B proseal, backed up with some regular proseal afterwards.
Anyone with thoughts about that?
Keith W.
Milan, IL
Just a comment - -
If you get with the program, you can pull the front plate off in 5 - 10 minutes. Use a thin blade flexible putty knife, and clean up the surfaces with a wire wheel. With the large front plate off, you can get you hand inside to correct any issues. Due to being an early builder ( with a cracked glass ), then deciding to close the window and add a Moeller Marine gauge, then do the "clip" mod, I have had mine off at least 3 times. Not a big deal. I think you'll feel better knowing you got it in a more sure condition. The more you 'play' with the 'gooooo', the better you will get at it ! !
John Bender
375.4 hours as of this morning
If you get with the program, you can pull the front plate off in 5 - 10 minutes. Use a thin blade flexible putty knife, and clean up the surfaces with a wire wheel. With the large front plate off, you can get you hand inside to correct any issues. Due to being an early builder ( with a cracked glass ), then deciding to close the window and add a Moeller Marine gauge, then do the "clip" mod, I have had mine off at least 3 times. Not a big deal. I think you'll feel better knowing you got it in a more sure condition. The more you 'play' with the 'gooooo', the better you will get at it ! !
John Bender
375.4 hours as of this morning
WingedFrog
Well Known Member
Simple examples here - -
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-wire-wheel-and-cup-brush-set-1341.html
Harbor Freight shows these. Can put them in an air die grinder, and they will take the 'gooo' off the metal fairly fast. Just don't stay on the surface too long in one spot. As soon as it is off, move on. Hand scuff the surface after 'gooo' is gone with say 100 sand paper in a pattern going around the surface, not in and out.
John Bender
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-wire-wheel-and-cup-brush-set-1341.html
Harbor Freight shows these. Can put them in an air die grinder, and they will take the 'gooo' off the metal fairly fast. Just don't stay on the surface too long in one spot. As soon as it is off, move on. Hand scuff the surface after 'gooo' is gone with say 100 sand paper in a pattern going around the surface, not in and out.
John Bender
MartySantic
Well Known Member
The cupped brush as shown in the link works very well in an electric drill. I found the air die grinder to spin way too fast.
A face shield is a must. The wires will fly off.
DHeal
Well Known Member
Not to put too fine a point on this subject but, it is generally recommended that one not use a steel wire wheel on aluminum. There exists the potential that steel wire particles could be embedded in the aluminum resulting in corrosion in the aluminum due to dissimilar materials. -- David
