Garrett3374
Active Member
What type of Band Saw would you suggest getting? Would one of the small table top 9" saws work ok? Kinda like the Ryobi's?
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Band Saw Question
- Thread starter Garrett3374
- Start date
Two main factors in searching for a bandsaw. Throat depth and speed.
Throat depth is the limiting factor for cutting size.
Many table top saws don't have a very slow speed. If you ever intend to cut steel, you will need the lower speeds. Trying to cut steel with the higher speeds will do nothing but burn up the blade.
Throat depth is the limiting factor for cutting size.
Many table top saws don't have a very slow speed. If you ever intend to cut steel, you will need the lower speeds. Trying to cut steel with the higher speeds will do nothing but burn up the blade.
Garrett3374
Active Member
DCat22
Well Known Member
In order of price, these are on my wish list:
$97: Skil 5585 9"
$350: Jet JWBS-10OS 10"
$450: Grizzly G0555 14" (sans shipping, and others in this range)
For me, really depends if I foresee doing other work with it beyond what is needed with the plane.
I love my "steel slicer".
I was also considering one of the aluminum cutting blades you can use on a miter/chop saw....assuming you keep the work clamped well. Some pro's and con's on that in other threads I believe.
$97: Skil 5585 9"
$350: Jet JWBS-10OS 10"
$450: Grizzly G0555 14" (sans shipping, and others in this range)
For me, really depends if I foresee doing other work with it beyond what is needed with the plane.
I love my "steel slicer".
I was also considering one of the aluminum cutting blades you can use on a miter/chop saw....assuming you keep the work clamped well. Some pro's and con's on that in other threads I believe.
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esjacoby77
Well Known Member
When I first started my empennage, I bought a small (10"?) Ryobi from Home Depot for around $100. I've been very happy with it, but I've never tried to cut anything other than wood and aluminum.
N941WR
Legacy Member
I bought an OLD three wheel 14" band saw at a garage sale for $10. Bought a bunch of new 18TPI blades for it and went to town.
The thing is a real POS but works great for cutting thin aluminum skins and aluminum angle. (I would love to buy the $450: Grizzly G0555 14" (sans shipping, and others in this range) that DCat 22 listed.)
A few other tools which I highly recommend are a pneumatic body saw, bench top belt sander with a 4" wide belt and 5" disk. (I used fine 120 grit belts and 80 grit on the disk. Just don't mix steel and aluminum on the same belt or you will push steel into your aluminum.) Cheap cutoff saw from Northern tool with aluminum blades. I didn't use this often but it was nice to have. 12" table top drill press. I used this for drilling and spinning my deburring wheel.
The thing is a real POS but works great for cutting thin aluminum skins and aluminum angle. (I would love to buy the $450: Grizzly G0555 14" (sans shipping, and others in this range) that DCat 22 listed.)
A few other tools which I highly recommend are a pneumatic body saw, bench top belt sander with a 4" wide belt and 5" disk. (I used fine 120 grit belts and 80 grit on the disk. Just don't mix steel and aluminum on the same belt or you will push steel into your aluminum.) Cheap cutoff saw from Northern tool with aluminum blades. I didn't use this often but it was nice to have. 12" table top drill press. I used this for drilling and spinning my deburring wheel.
Rainmaker
Member
2 Cents
I'm halfway through the airframe using a $100 Delta bandsaw from Lowes. I can attest to burning up a blade trying to trim the seat belt anchors. But it's been great for all the aluminum cutting. I wouldn't think to spend too much on a bandsaw. I would put your money to buying a better drillpress as the bolt holes are more critical to get accurate and straight. YMMV.
I'm halfway through the airframe using a $100 Delta bandsaw from Lowes. I can attest to burning up a blade trying to trim the seat belt anchors. But it's been great for all the aluminum cutting. I wouldn't think to spend too much on a bandsaw. I would put your money to buying a better drillpress as the bolt holes are more critical to get accurate and straight. YMMV.
BSwayze
Well Known Member
I just finished my fuselage kit recently. My little $99 Ryobi bandsaw from Home Depot has served me very well. Especially considering the money spent. It has a 9" throat depth. For less than $10 you can get a hacksaw-style metal cutting blade that cuts through aluminum like butter. Just don't try any steel and you'll be fine.
Here's a picture of my Dad helping me cut the stiffeners for the fuel tank. The saw is easily carried around; in this case, outside to sit on top of a little portable workbench I made:
Here's a picture of my Dad helping me cut the stiffeners for the fuel tank. The saw is easily carried around; in this case, outside to sit on top of a little portable workbench I made:
Greg Arehart
Well Known Member
What Bruce (and others) said. Ryobi was/is a good deal. I did have to replace one of the guides eventually (little chunks going through it eventually broke it off).
greg
greg
Garrett3374
Active Member
Ok SO I found a used Craftsman 10" band saw.... Whats the recomended TPI (teeth per inch) for cutting aluminum...
JonJay
Well Known Member
It depends on thickness
Generally, the thinner the material, the more teeth. A 24 tpi raker will work very well for most of your work up to .125 and is a good overall compromise. If you go much thicker you would want to drop down. If you have thick stock, over 1/2", a "tooth" blade is a better choice, just be careful as the speed of wood cutting band saws is pretty high.
Ideally, you want 2 or 3 teeth on the work at the same time.
I like the bi-metal blades.
Generally, the thinner the material, the more teeth. A 24 tpi raker will work very well for most of your work up to .125 and is a good overall compromise. If you go much thicker you would want to drop down. If you have thick stock, over 1/2", a "tooth" blade is a better choice, just be careful as the speed of wood cutting band saws is pretty high.
Ideally, you want 2 or 3 teeth on the work at the same time.
I like the bi-metal blades.
larrynew
Well Known Member
DanH said:
I got the blade DanH recommended for my 10" Craftsman and it's worked great through the wings. Much better than the blade that came with it.
rv9aviator
Well Known Member
I have a tabletop Grizzly G8976 and it isn't up to the task. It has absolutely no power unless run wide open. When you slow it down some to cut aluminum you have to baby it through to keep from stalling it out.
agirard7a
Well Known Member
cutting aluminum
I purchased the Ryobi tabel top band saw. Works well. Make sure however all the rollers are adjusted properly with about a folded paper gap between the rollers and the blade, if these are out, you will be hating life tring to get a straight cut and keeping the blade from wandering.
Regarding cutting alum. angle. I used to build alumn fishing boats. The best saw for this is a 10" mitre box saw with a carbide finish blade 40-60 teeth. We also use to cut rather thick guage alum sheet stock with a plane ole 7 1/4"skill saw with carbide teeth. The "chop box" miter saw is really great for cuting angle of all sizes, especially the 2 1/2" used in the fire wall.
I purchased the Ryobi tabel top band saw. Works well. Make sure however all the rollers are adjusted properly with about a folded paper gap between the rollers and the blade, if these are out, you will be hating life tring to get a straight cut and keeping the blade from wandering.
Regarding cutting alum. angle. I used to build alumn fishing boats. The best saw for this is a 10" mitre box saw with a carbide finish blade 40-60 teeth. We also use to cut rather thick guage alum sheet stock with a plane ole 7 1/4"skill saw with carbide teeth. The "chop box" miter saw is really great for cuting angle of all sizes, especially the 2 1/2" used in the fire wall.
Teeth
FWIW,
When I started building, someone recommended a wood tooth spacing (6 TPI). I found that spacing to be very good for aluminum. It cuts much faster than metal blades in anything below about 3/8" thickness. It's probably a bit course for thin sheet, but you should probably cut that with snips anyway.
FWIW,
When I started building, someone recommended a wood tooth spacing (6 TPI). I found that spacing to be very good for aluminum. It cuts much faster than metal blades in anything below about 3/8" thickness. It's probably a bit course for thin sheet, but you should probably cut that with snips anyway.
Garrett3374
Active Member
I ended up getting a 14tpi and a 24tpi
We'll see how these work..
We'll see how these work..
I ended up buying this Skil refirb. It works. I can't say much more than that for it. It is super cheaply made. The laser line is a joke. I had to tape the open-door sensor closed because it wasn't anywhere near lined up with being pushed when the door is closed.
After a bit of setting up, it cuts straight, which is all i need. Its probably hard to beat for 100 bucks, but don't expect too much. I'll be curious to see how long it lasts me.
I think i'll look for a little more quality in buying a bench drill press.
Very useful tool
I have found a band saw to be one of the most useful additions I could make to my shop. I bought the Grizzly G0555, a 14 inch two speed model woodworking saw. Run on the slower speed with a 1/8 inch 18 tpi blade, it has proved extremely useful fabricating the occasional required and optional aluminum part.
I have found a band saw to be one of the most useful additions I could make to my shop. I bought the Grizzly G0555, a 14 inch two speed model woodworking saw. Run on the slower speed with a 1/8 inch 18 tpi blade, it has proved extremely useful fabricating the occasional required and optional aluminum part.
rzbill
Well Known Member
I'll be the single dissenting voice
1) The original poster is working on tail kit, so fabrication from scratch work is low compared to fuselage.
2) EVERYTHING can be well made with a hacksaw and in many cases, better.
3) Spend the money intended for band saw on a better drill press or more C-sink cages or a DRDT-2 for instance.
1) The original poster is working on tail kit, so fabrication from scratch work is low compared to fuselage.
2) EVERYTHING can be well made with a hacksaw and in many cases, better.
3) Spend the money intended for band saw on a better drill press or more C-sink cages or a DRDT-2 for instance.
dhall_polo
Well Known Member
two more cents
I used a ryobi band saw for the whole project - just keep a good stock of metal blades handy. Once the blade dulls, it's worthless.
For cutting angle, however, I preferred a 12" mitre with a metal cutting disc on it. Made for nice straight cuts, through and through. Not so easy to do with a twisty band saw blade. I only used the band saw for longer cuts through sheets, and even then I preferred metal snips most of the time.
I used a ryobi band saw for the whole project - just keep a good stock of metal blades handy. Once the blade dulls, it's worthless.
For cutting angle, however, I preferred a 12" mitre with a metal cutting disc on it. Made for nice straight cuts, through and through. Not so easy to do with a twisty band saw blade. I only used the band saw for longer cuts through sheets, and even then I preferred metal snips most of the time.
RV7Ron
Well Known Member
I have a Ryobi table top and think its junk...and consequently, I hardly use it. I could get by without it. Hacksaws, chop saws, dremel with a cutoff wheel, die grinder with a cutoff wheel are all preferred over my band saw. YMMV.
Edit: maybe its operator error...this comment is interesting, I'll check out my setup tonight.
Edit: maybe its operator error...this comment is interesting, I'll check out my setup tonight.
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Experimental Chaos
Well Known Member
Size only kinda matters
I have a smaller band saw, and love it. If you need to cut something that won?t fit in the throat, you can cut it at whatever angle you can get though and then recut the end square. This assumes you have some extra material as you will produce about an inch and a half of scrap, but it beats the heck out of a hack saw!
I have a smaller band saw, and love it. If you need to cut something that won?t fit in the throat, you can cut it at whatever angle you can get though and then recut the end square. This assumes you have some extra material as you will produce about an inch and a half of scrap, but it beats the heck out of a hack saw!
