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Avoiding Canopy Cracking (Long Term)

<<On the 8, the front end of the slider will be under the fairing of the windscreen and not exposed to wind stress. That would leave the back of the canopy as the primary area of concern.>>

The issue under discussion is stress created by differential thermal expansion, not air loads.

<<How much would you figure the canopy will move in the area around the side fasteners?>>

If you assume an oversize hole at every fastener, and that the fasteners do not firmly clamp the plexiglass to the frame, a rough estimate of relative displacement can be found as outlined previously. Instead of 36, substitute the distance from canopy midpoint to the fastener in question.

Example; fastener is 12 inches aft of midpoint (or about 48 inches from the front).

12" x .000035 x 60 degrees = .0252" growth in the length of the plexiglass
12" x .000005 x 60 degrees = .0036" growth in the steel frame
.0252 - .0036 = .0216 difference in thermal expansion

Let's say you want to eliminate stress at the hole in the plexiglass due to thermal expansion pushing the plexi against this fixed fastener. You might enlarge the hole in the plexiglass enough that when at 0F or 120F, the thermal displacement shifts fastener position just to the edge of the hole. In this case you would add .0216" to the radius of the fastener, ie, if using an 1/8" diameter rivet, you would drill a .1682 hole in the plexiglass.

Doesn't take much thought to see this method has some serious practical limitations, as the required hole size gets larger as you get further from the midpoint. You would need almost a 7/16" hole at the far end fasteners on an RV8 canopy.

Are to starting to see why chicken fasteners are kinda dumb here? Unless you use large holes and unclamped fasteners, you'll have all the point stress of the standard riveted attachment and its potential for cracking from the holes. The whole purpose of the bonding method was to eliminate these stress points. If you're gonna drill holes and use fasteners, forget bonding, as you gain nothing.
 
Agree with Dan that if you want to fasten AND eliminate ALL stress on the canopy it is really impractical. But I think you do not have to eliminate all of it. Given that there are plenty of canopy's using the book method that have not had any cracks the plexi can absorb a certain amount of stress.

I would think that in this discussion the fasteners act more like "safety wire". They would be there to prevent a sealant failure from propagating and causing complete canopy seperation. So, fasteners would not be needed at book spacing around the entire circumference of the canopy. Only enough to do the job mentioned, given a adequate amount hole clearance for expansion, would still meet the requirements of safety wire and have less stress.
 
<<(chicken) fasteners would not be needed at book spacing around the entire circumference >>

Wade-- good point!

Back to the bead height. Bob, you there? Do your numbers include a figure for E, and if so what are you using? Only reference I have lists 1000 for "rubber". I realize there is no direct tie between E and Shore, but Shore A 35 (Sika) and Shore A 55 (PR-1425) surely must elongate differently.
 
Some UV considerations

When I looked at the UV issue for my RV-8 canopy, I considered the following:
1. The Sika was specifically formulated for UV exposure
2. Every part of the canopy with a Sika bond was under plexi which absorbs a very large percentage of UV.
3. Every part of the canopy which has a Sika bond is covered with a fiberglass skirt or winscreen fairing.
4. I hangar my plane and when cross country I use a canopy cover to protect and keep eyes off my avionics.

I agree that UV is a consideration, but these other factors in sum significantly mitigate this risk in my opinion.

Finally, we have the opportunity to directly measure the differential expansion by looking for extension of the front edge of the canopy in reference to the steel frame. You could measure the front edge on a cool morning while in the hangar and then measure again after sitting in the sun where it can get quite hot in a closed bubble canopy.

My Sika bonded canopy is rock-solid. I am not trying to convince anyone in one technique vs another, but just want to contribute my experience.

FM

391FM
flying, 118 hrs
 
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