BillL
Well Known Member
It was perfect . . . then something changed! This is repeated many times. While it likely may be futile in the real world of temperature changes, I persist
nevertheless.
I am not a multiple offender, nor an expert, nor bragging on results, merely sharing some findings. Why? For me the canopy was the most demoralizing, sleepless night, head aching, and mentally challenging part of the build.
The perimeter can be broken into zones, measurement variables, and changes that may affect one or more of the issues.
Measurement variables are gap and stagger, or offset. These can be applied to the full perimeter.
Zones
Center front between the hinges. Changes - offset hinge bushings. But - these also affect side alignment, front gap and stagger/offset.
Out board of hinges. Also affected by the hinge pivots, but can be bent at the hinge point to raise or lower. If needed then add spacers for the skin down by the longeron. Very limited options for change once the canopy is glassed in.
Side skirts. Gap can only yield no adjustments, or outright replacement of the skirt. File if too tight, and replace if too high. Some adjustment may be dependent on the fit of the canopy to the roll bar. Offset or stagger. See photos below - if overhanging the fuse skin, then the inside of the rail can be stretched. Use the small flat rivet sets in a pneumatic squeezer and place the squeeze points near the edge spacing based on whether the it is an even bow or a "vee" shape with a point. Careful, 5-8 squeeze points will push out the rail by .030. Test and sneak up on it. What if you go too far - or it starts sunken from the fuse? Then use a bending bridge with a 2X4 and a block inside. Again sneak up on it. It is springy, so expect some spring back. Count the turns if needed. I did all the above on mine with the canopy bolted and glassed in.
Canopy match to rear window. With all the holes finalized this is limited to the flat portions. Sanding for gaps, and using some white nylon washers for spacers worked for me. They are nearly invisible from the outside.
Photos for entertainment.
Offset Bushings
Squeezer
Clamp
Washers
Note: I have no clue why the photos don't show. The method of sharing, permissions do not seem to have changed. I will try and fix.
nevertheless.
I am not a multiple offender, nor an expert, nor bragging on results, merely sharing some findings. Why? For me the canopy was the most demoralizing, sleepless night, head aching, and mentally challenging part of the build.
The perimeter can be broken into zones, measurement variables, and changes that may affect one or more of the issues.
Measurement variables are gap and stagger, or offset. These can be applied to the full perimeter.
Zones
Center front between the hinges. Changes - offset hinge bushings. But - these also affect side alignment, front gap and stagger/offset.
Out board of hinges. Also affected by the hinge pivots, but can be bent at the hinge point to raise or lower. If needed then add spacers for the skin down by the longeron. Very limited options for change once the canopy is glassed in.
Side skirts. Gap can only yield no adjustments, or outright replacement of the skirt. File if too tight, and replace if too high. Some adjustment may be dependent on the fit of the canopy to the roll bar. Offset or stagger. See photos below - if overhanging the fuse skin, then the inside of the rail can be stretched. Use the small flat rivet sets in a pneumatic squeezer and place the squeeze points near the edge spacing based on whether the it is an even bow or a "vee" shape with a point. Careful, 5-8 squeeze points will push out the rail by .030. Test and sneak up on it. What if you go too far - or it starts sunken from the fuse? Then use a bending bridge with a 2X4 and a block inside. Again sneak up on it. It is springy, so expect some spring back. Count the turns if needed. I did all the above on mine with the canopy bolted and glassed in.
Canopy match to rear window. With all the holes finalized this is limited to the flat portions. Sanding for gaps, and using some white nylon washers for spacers worked for me. They are nearly invisible from the outside.
Photos for entertainment.
Offset Bushings
Squeezer
Clamp
Washers
Note: I have no clue why the photos don't show. The method of sharing, permissions do not seem to have changed. I will try and fix.
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