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rudder cables routing

Bavafa

Well Known Member
Just finished my tail cone tonight and waiting for the rest of the kit to arrive but as I was looking how the rudder cables run cross the tail cone, I couldn?t help wonder how long will does plastic fittings (SB750-10) last special at the first bulkhead. There is a good amount of tensioned rubbing on those and they are not easily replaceable unless you slit them which is not much of a problem so I was wondering is there anything else that will protect these or they are just as it is.
 
Just finished my tail cone tonight and waiting for the rest of the kit to arrive but as I was looking how the rudder cables run cross the tail cone, I couldn?t help wonder how long will does plastic fittings (SB750-10) last special at the first bulkhead. There is a good amount of tensioned rubbing on those and they are not easily replaceable unless you slit them which is not much of a problem so I was wondering is there anything else that will protect these or they are just as it is.

I have nylon spiral wrap around cable easy to replace
 
Have you seen much wear on the plastic snap bushing or the spiral wrap? I wondering how much friction is added by the spiral wrap.

On the bushings i found some wear it was not critical but i desided toput spiral wrap to avoid problem.
You can hear bushings grinding when cable passing through
Spiral wrap nilon is much more slipery then bushings i dont fill it is added but cant hear bushing grainding
On first rv7 460 hours. And did same for second one purchased 390 hours
 
On the bushings i found some wear it was not critical but i desided toput spiral wrap to avoid problem.
You can hear bushings grinding when cable passing through
Spiral wrap nilon is much more slipery then bushings i dont fill it is added but cant hear bushing grainding
On first rv7 460 hours. And did same for second one purchased 390 hours
Is yours on a RV14 or 7? RV7 rudder cable runs rather straight and has little friction on the snap bushing but on a 14 there is a fairly tight angle that the cable runs on the bushing.
 
Get the next size smaller snap bushing, one that will snap into the cable bushing in the bulkhead. Slit it with an Xacto knife, snap it over the rudder cable and push/snap it into the bulkhead bushing. When the smaller size bushing wears out simply remove and replace it.

Other builders have used snap on rigging covers to provide slippery surfaces like this -

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--snap-on-cable-covers--P002_065_007_002?recordNum=1

But I think the replaceable inner second bushings are easier.
 
Get the next size smaller snap bushing, one that will snap into the cable bushing in the bulkhead. Slit it with an Xacto knife, snap it over the rudder cable and push/snap it into the bulkhead bushing. When the smaller size bushing wears out simply remove and replace it.

Other builders have used snap on rigging covers to provide slippery surfaces like this -

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--snap-on-cable-covers--P002_065_007_002?recordNum=1

But I think the replaceable inner second bushings are easier.
Gil,
I think that is a great idea and I will try that. Also this way, there is more meat in the bushing and should prevent ever getting to the metal part.
 
Get the next size smaller snap bushing, one that will snap into the cable bushing in the bulkhead. Slit it with an Xacto knife, snap it over the rudder cable and push/snap it into the bulkhead bushing. When the smaller size bushing wears out simply remove and replace it.

Other builders have used snap on rigging covers to provide slippery surfaces like this -

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--snap-on-cable-covers--P002_065_007_002?recordNum=1

But I think the replaceable inner second bushings are easier.

What is preventing slit bushing to come out ?
 
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