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Parking Brake Valve Location

rapid_ascent

Well Known Member
I know there is debate about the value of having a parking brake. That discussion is for another thread.

I'm starting to think about the best location for the valve. Some mount it on the firewall in the position of the flex to hardline. I like the idea of moving it up higher on the firewall as others have done to reduce the possibility of hitting the line with your feet, but then the tubing routing isn't as clean due to the diagonal firewall brace.

A third option would be to transition from flex to hardline in the standard location and then locate the valve somewhere between the firewall and the fuel selector valve. I like this idea since it seems the cleanest solution but the control cable would have to be routed further and that may be a complication.

I'm interested ideas and feedback from those who have gone down this path before. I'm sure there are other issues I may not have considered.

Thanks
 
I just mounted mine in the standard position on the firewall. I have found that the further I deviate from the plans the time required goes up exponentially. I am enjoying the build but I am itching to go and fly.
 
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I put the parking valve just underneath the upper horizontal longeron and ran hard lines down to the angle bracket Van's has you use to connect to the lines in the floor. I ran flex lines from the value to the peddles. This was a great location for the control cable too as I was able to use the panel rib above to support the cable. I did make sure to locate the hole for the prop cable before running the hard lines... I likely have pictures at home if you need it.
 
I just removed mine cause I couldn't get it to stop dripping and had little confidence that the new one would be much better.

Bevan
 
Brake handle location

One of the first things I did when I got my new, 24 year old RV6 home was add a parking brake. The brake handle went in the upper left corner of the instrument panel. I used the cable with the round knob with the push button in the middle. Just pull it out and it stays out. Just push the button in and the handle goes in. I can reach it to release when standing in front of the wing and conveniently just push the button in when putting the plane away.
 
Now why did I not think of that location? The only drawback I see is making sure that it has not been bumped in flight and is ON while landing.
That doesn't work for a taildragger because the brake lines go through the firewall, not aft to the spar.

The other issue with putting it in this location on an "A" is it could interfere with the fuel pump, if you have an injected engine.
 
Here is where mine is installed.

(Click to enlarge)
A better picture of my install. Click on the thumbnail to enlarge.


This shows how I used the cable casing as the travel stop so the lever arm cannot go over center. Also note how I used shrink tubing to keep the cable from slipping in the Adel clamp.
All screws that are difficult to reach are cap screws with plate nuts. They are much easier to remove for future maintenance than a pan head screw (Phillip's head) or a bolt and nut.

I have a T-Handle locking control cable that is mounted in the upper right hand corner of my panel. This where I tend to look when taking off and landing. The theory is that I won't do either with it pulled out and locked.
 
I was thinking about something similar to what Patrick did only farther forward since I'll have the fuel pump in that area. The layout looks pretty clean to me. I would be a little worried about having the lever down there getting bumped though. However, there may not be enough available height in that area for the lever, mount and etc.
 
I was thinking about something similar to what Patrick did only farther forward since I'll have the fuel pump in that area. The layout looks pretty clean to me. I would be a little worried about having the lever down there getting bumped though. However, there may not be enough available height in that area for the lever, mount and etc.

If you do that, can you mount a lever on the fuel pump cover or on the fuel valve cover to activate and lock the brake valve? That would make it easier to activate.
 
Parking Brake Valve location

Bill,

Did you use the stock length primary braided break lines? Any problems with kinking or interfering with pedal action? About how far down from the top angle?

Thanks,
Alan
 
Like this?

Mine is mounted near the spar on my 7A. It can be easily reached with your right hand and no linkage is required.

I9-HtFDA46QCHRFApSLNMF9dYHEHwH0foWIL2g58ZkcP18f0lK0qrDLxnBOklwRwJtmoYseG4STsnpBjnqvmNQSG_bdiYVNKvPsaYvMxTV_7Hizqlu8LN82JcbFUVFyjtxl9m5qvwXaZOaWOLCF7e9o_XBfJY35bpF_NgYM6Iuk_mUQW7zBOWyMqcdDL8t0gtrQcl1u3xDuGQbilXkenASXe318jp4_n4i5Cxyh_QDwU3vpkwqMk7L8PQjKxQVrYXrnQ0HfKS24KQFs5g14f9u3oQNMrRg3o-VRvNBflkATO6B_keSem717WwPtkutB07jLSI6CagEJm0r5OYW1xBFXNbYJBJG3Ov_qT6eTaeCzJ8AcUufNrFlylwwlnq7RhAnDjValYH9i4jRHQOVjzb4fVxmt-M0L_-MRTPc9JmzdIWV4GAvv5JYQWUx1E_CNisFpLhmR6YSucMkWol4ffWcCZ_uZlUj0YTgaMXyYmpdZ9fQnievZNsnsvQ7okE73ERd_ufTs88kwqWxwa4F6Oov3a52RWr3ukfK3NBJc68Vn6VvV9q_IU_Yni0U4PAo1ElYk_OfDAA6hSAQhqAv9an7JoqlPT0Vl4EbQ6Ll04qz2gbboAPlGyCFBwTvChU7gByPigbjf5p-OVk0VZFgyBi6d-70lUcWivAjQyP4wtX6Y=w574-h496-no


More pictures and text involving my parking brake valve install at:

http://roughandreadyaerospace.blogspot.com/2013/11/step-103-brake-lines.html

P.S. I was happy that I went to the trouble to install the parking brake. I haven't been flying a complete year yet, but I gotten myself into several situations where the brake was indispensable. (Like not being able to get out of the plane after parking without the plane rolling.)
 
Bill,

Did you use the stock length primary braided break lines? Any problems with kinking or interfering with pedal action? About how far down from the top angle?

Thanks,
Alan

Yes, they were the stock length braided lines and no, no issues with them kinking or interfering with the pedals.

When I first built the plane I used the plastic brake lines over to the passenger side. When I had it home for the engine replacement, I replaced all the interior lines with braided SS lines.

To fill the brake lines I bought a $10 chemical spray from my local big box store (Lowes) to push the fluid into the system. A pressurized "tool" is required to get all the air bubbles out. I cut the tip off the wand, inserted a 3/16" barb x 3/16" barb splicer (Lowe's part number A-95), and then inserted a 1/4" clear hose on the other end of the barb.* Loosen the nipple on the caliper, this is requires a 1/4" socket. Pressurize the container and squirt away. Do not get the small chemical sprayer because it is shorter, the air pump will be in the brake fluid and will put air bubbles in it when you pump it up.



To catch the brake fluid, I modified a small bottle from the auto parts store that is designed so you can bleed your car brakes by yourself. Pick up a 1/4" threaded section, a 1/4" x 1/8" tube to female pipe coupling with insert (Lowe's part number A-15), and some 1/8" clear vinyl hose.
 
mixture and prop

On my 7, I mounted the parking brake valve straight up above where the brake lines pass thru the firewall, I like to location, but be aware that is also in the same neighborhood that the mixture and prop controls go thru the firewall, at least for an IO engine. So depending on the firewall pass-thru method you will employ, the parking brake valve may or may not interfere with the placement of all.

I must agree that "that the further I deviate from the plans the time required goes up exponentially"
 
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