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Hendricks Canopy Latch

acam37

Well Known Member
Has anyone installed a Hendricks flush mount canopy latch on their -4?
The installation looks pretty easy and there are a few pics on their website, but a few more pictures wouldn't hurt. All the info I found on VAF was specific to the RV-10 doors and nothing showed up for the -4.
 
I'm not familiar with the Hendricks Canopy Latch, but I bought the safety latch from Vans and haven't installed it as of yet.

If you don't mind asking, where can I get more information on the "Hendricks Latch".

I've lost my canopy once and I'll never want to do that again....
 
I'm surprised no one has used this latch. I've already bought one and was trying to figure the best way to install it. My thought is to use sikaflex to bond the plate to the fiberglass skirt and then cover the back side with a few layers of fiberglass mat and epoxy resin. I don't want to use any rivets or screws. After looking at some RV-10 installations I believe that's how they do it.
 
Why

Guys,

I am not trying to be difficult here but am intrigued as to why you would want to fit one. The standard system works fine, it had done on hundreds of aircraft so why change what works well?
 
I am not trying to be difficult here but am intrigued as to why you would want to fit one. The standard system works fine, it had done on hundreds of aircraft so why change what works well?
One simple reason. It looks good. I know the RV-4 was designed to be a simple VFR machine, but we decided to go all out; fastback conversion, glass panel, auto pilot, ADS-B, electric trim and flaps, and smoke system. And I already know what people will say. "All the upgrades will only add extra weight and not add a penny to the resale value". That's fine, but I want this -4 to be unique and stand out from all the rest.
 
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One simple reason. It looks good. I know the RV-4 was designed to be a simple VFR machine, but we decided to go all out; fastback conversion, glass panel, auto pilot, ADS-B, electric trim and flaps, and smoke system. And I already know what people will say. "All the upgrades will only add extra weight and not add a penny to the resale value". That's fine, but I want this -4 to be unique and stand out from all the rest.


Amen! :)
 
Weight

Hi

I understand looking good. but you hit the nail on the head here by mentioning weight. I have put my 4 on a diet since finishing it,

I like fastbacks though and wish I had gone that route. Best of luck anyway.
 
KISS

Guys,

I am not trying to be difficult here but am intrigued as to why you would want to fit one. The standard system works fine, it had done on hundreds of aircraft so why change what works well?

Amen Steve,
The reason most 4"s haven't used it is most 4"s were built 10-25 years ago, the latch didn't exist. Second, the RV4 by design is exceedingly simple, a bold statement within itself. The latch system in the plans works very well, nearly 2000 hours later on mine. The real challenge is a well designed canopy hold-open device for taxiing on hot days.
When I built my 4, the goal among builders wasn't how much expensive junk you could bolt into it, but what number it tipped the scales when you were through....Light is right. :)

V/R
Smokey
 
Well, here it is. Its only dry fit, but this will give you an idea how its going to look once installed. I really like the flush mount and the ability to lock. The extra time to install compared to the OEM latch will be minimal.
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That looks great!

Does it use the same rods that lock in at the front and rear of the canopy as per the original design?
 
The latch is finally installed and functional. It turned out better than expected. We fabricated an electrical secondary lock to prevent an accidental opening. I have to hand it to Justin for coming up with this design, This was completely his idea and design. I know it's a little overkill, but it's in the spirit of "experimental".
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Locked
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"There are many that resemble mine, but this one is mine"- adapted from 2001-A Space Odyssey.
Daddyman
 
If you're inside the plane and the electric latch is engaged and it fails in that position, you can get out using the manual override. If you close the canopy from the outside and turn the external handle so that the canopy is latched, you can't reopen the latch.

Right?

Dave
 
When you turn off the master and get out, the actuator is retracted and doesnt have power. The lock switch is over on the right side so it is highly unlikely it could accidentally be activated. If it is when the handle is in the open position you won't be able to lock it from the outside.
Now you could force it closed if the actuator was engaged, but you would probably notice it binding before you actually got it closed. What we could do is install a stop on the bottom of the actuator arm to keep that from happening.
 
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Amen Steve,
The real challenge is a well designed canopy hold-open device for taxiing on hot days.


Here is my solution for propping open the canopy on hot days. It also serves the function of forcing you to (or forcing itself if you drop the canopy closed) retract the canopy latching pins as you lower the canopy thus preventing you from scratching the fuselage where the pins would normally strike it if not retracted. There is also a "safety latch" that requires you to press it down with your thumb before pushing the canopy latch lever forward. This causes it to take two hands to open the canopy so I've removed it since adding a parachute. Since the photo was taken I've added another "detent notch" to the assembly to allow for a more closed canopy position as quite a bit of wind blows through if you use the most open detent, much more than needed for summer comfort. It can almost blow your headset off in runup.

The lower assembly is mounted to the fuselage using one of the bolts that mount the rollover bar.

http://oi58.tinypic.com/scb6lj.jpg

http://oi59.tinypic.com/2jbr87d.jpg
 
Taxi Lock

We also have a pretty cool taxi position lock, but it will be in another thread. It also works off of mini linear actuator. It's not 100% yet, but I will post it when it's ready.
 
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