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Aarrrg!

Plummit

Well Known Member
Just finished the annual and BFR which ran out the same month. Everything worked normally yesterday. Today the left-hand door wouldn't latch properly. The interior handle goes to about a 45 degree angle then stops. This has the basic 2-pin lock but it also has the "I fly RV-10" flush billet handles on the exterior. Something is jamming the mechanism inside the door (which is sealed). Before I start cutting, has anyone experience this?

~Marc
 
It's probably the clevis pin that holds the geared rod to the pin. That can sometimes catch on the fiberglass. Try that first. If that's not it, pull the clevis pin on the front and the back independently and see which one starts working with the other disconnected. Narrow it down this way.
 
It's probably the clevis pin that holds the geared rod to the pin. That can sometimes catch on the fiberglass. Try that first. If that's not it, pull the clevis pin on the front and the back independently and see which one starts working with the other disconnected. Narrow it down this way.

I think I see what you are talking about on the plans. I'll cut the door open at the interior latch and check it out.

-Marc
 
For those of you who've finished the doors, has anyone come up with a neat way to close the holes you cut in the inside surface of the doors without a permanent patch? I hate the idea of leaving those fiddly linkages in there without a way to access them other than cutting a hole in the door.
 
Fixed!

Well it turns out that the builder attached the racks with screws - and no locker. No locktight nothing. The screw holding the aft rack end had backed out until it started hitting the interior of the door. I removed it and replaced with red lock tight. At least he covered the hole with thin glass so it was easy to break out and access the mechanism.

I would have preferred a removable cover plate or door panel.

-Marc
 
For those of you who've finished the doors, has anyone come up with a neat way to close the holes you cut in the inside surface of the doors without a permanent patch? I hate the idea of leaving those fiddly linkages in there without a way to access them other than cutting a hole in the door.

I have a hole in my painted inner door skins to allow me access to the pin that connects the handle pushrod to the PlaneAround 3rd latch rack. It's probably around a 3/4" hole... enough for me to get the pin and safety wire done up with a needle nose.

I used a flush hole plug cap to cover it. It's just a black circle on my tan doors, and doesn't look bad at all, and it's removable.

SMFS_-_sheet-metal-plugs-standard-flush_group1.png
 
2zizv9u.jpg
Very nice Ed! In my case the offending screw was at the front, behind the interior door handle. The builder had sealed the area with thin glass, so I had to break that out to get access. I'm wondering what's behind the passenger door and the rear outside door handle....

2j2byhg.jpg


In the above image you can see the screw in the lower left that started to work it's way out. The head is bent forward in this pic.


~Marc
 
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If you have the IFlyRV-10 flush handle, you have something like this on the inside. More opportunity for loose screws. If that rear one comes off you could lose the rear pin and then the door.
Might be a good idea to cut a small hole that can be covered by a plug like Ed's and then scope those screws.
There's also a 1/4" screw in the center, it loosened up for me even with a star washer under it. The next time I'll get to it it will get a pair of Nordlock washers.


doorlatch.png


Here's how I covered mine so i can get to it. Not too pretty but it works.

doorhandle.jpg
 
I have a hole in my painted inner door skins to allow me access to the pin that connects the handle pushrod to the PlaneAround 3rd latch rack. It's probably around a 3/4" hole... enough for me to get the pin and safety wire done up with a needle nose.

I used a flush hole plug cap to cover it. It's just a black circle on my tan doors, and doesn't look bad at all, and it's removable.

SMFS_-_sheet-metal-plugs-standard-flush_group1.png

I'd considered those. Do they A: Stay attached? And B: Not interfere with the internal mechanism?

I'd actually thought about thinning them a little and using rubber cement, pliobond, or some other "soft" adhesive to hold 'em in place.
 
I'd considered those. Do they A: Stay attached? And B: Not interfere with the internal mechanism?

I'd actually thought about thinning them a little and using rubber cement, pliobond, or some other "soft" adhesive to hold 'em in place.

Yup. They just popped right in. Got them at the local Ace Hardware. They are very secure, as I had picked them out before I drilled the hole, so they are sized properly. I've pulled them off a few times, using a pick to pull them out.

Also, no interference with anything in the location I've got mine installed. They don't stick into the interior of the door much.
 
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