CP-214 Question...

I didn't want to post this in the existing thread since it's really not the same issue...

I just bought a CP-214 and I've never used one. I have no idea how to set this thing up or whether I even have the right dies to use with it.

I have an assortment of Cleaveland flat and cupped rivet sets (for squeezers) and dimple dies. The only ones that come in pairs are the dimple dies - I assume I can use these with the CP-214?

What about squeezing rivets? Do I just use an arbitrary pair of the flat sets - one that gets the spacing close and then shim as needed?

Very confrused.

Below is what I've got:

mdredmond said:

I didn't want to post this in the existing thread since it's really not the same issue...

I just bought a CP-214 and I've never used one. I have no idea how to set this thing up or whether I even have the right dies to use with it.

I have an assortment of Cleaveland flat and cupped rivet sets (for squeezers) and dimple dies. The only ones that come in pairs are the dimple dies - I assume I can use these with the CP-214?

What about squeezing rivets? Do I just use an arbitrary pair of the flat sets - one that gets the spacing close and then shim as needed?

Very confrused.

Below is what I've got:

Click to expand...

Yes you are correct on how to adjust it.
If you adjust to close to each other , the rivet will not compress, so start way out and adjust inward.
You use a flat set ( 1 ontop and 1 on the bottom ) for 426 solids,
and 1 cupped an a flat for 470's .
I started with the shim idea, that worked, but I did end up getting the adjustable set from Avery.
If you do get the adjustable set, you SHOULD also get a close quarters female 3/32 dimp die so you can use it to dimple ribs.

Get the adjustable set. Save you lots of time & hassle.

Then you squeeze a rivet putting pressure on the ram to hold the rivet in place. If you don't hold the rivet tight against the skin, it will start to back out a little before the shank expands to hold it tight & you will get a high rivet.

Start by setting the gap a little shorter than the unsqueezed rivet length, squeeze the rivet & check it with a gage--Clear Air Tools has the best one--, then turn the ram inward & repeat until you get it squeezed correctly. Then extend the ram and turn the ram all the way until the 2 dies contact, counting the turns as you do so. Record the number of turns & you will be able to set up for that size rivet in seconds.

Thanks for the replies, guys. On the adjustable set holder thing... I knew I'd end up wanting one but any idea whose should I buy? Below are some pics...

Clear Air Tools:



Cleaveland:



Brown:



Avery:

As is often the case, Avery has no picture available (I wonder what makes them think people want to buy things sight-unseen?).


The CAT and Brown set holders look the same or very similar. Cleaveland's looks 'cheaper' but could be better for all I know. Who knows what Avery is selling...?

Thanks!

One guy's opinion

mdredmond said:

On the adjustable set holder thing... I knew I'd end up wanting one but any idea whose should I buy?

Click to expand...

I have used both the Avery adjustable set (the one intended for the pneumatic squeezer, not the one for the hand squeezer) and the Clear Air Tools one. I prefer the Clear Air Tools set because it has a more positive friction thingy in it to keep the set from adjusting itself between squeezes, plus it just seems sturdier. I do use the Avery adjustable set in my hand squeezer, though. No experience with the Brown Tools one. YMMV.

mcb

One Other Guy's Opinion...

I have only used the Avery, so I can't compare it to the others, but I built an entire airplane with it, and never had a problem.

Paul

Thanks for the help guys - I really appreciate it.