Tip: Easy cleco cleaning

Easy cleco cleanin'

I'm working on my left tank right now. That's the first one for me, so it's been a learning process to say the least. Big thanks to Dan for the tank alignment method and tons of other useful info on his site!

However, I didn't like cleaning clecos after using them. What a tedious process, and it was quite difficult to get them anywhere near squeaky clean, not to mention the piles of MEK soaked towels with Proseal all over them when you're done. I found an easier way! (I think it's easier anyway.)

After a session, I wait two days to begin the next, so the sealant that's already applied isn't sticky any longer. When setting up fot the next session I clean my clecos on a 4" fine wire wheel ($5 at HD) in my bench grinder. Hold them with cleco pliers and rotate occassionally. It gets them quite clean, I use far fewer towels and much less MEK this way, and I don't need to wear a respirator. Just safety glasses.

Give it a try!

I haven't gotton to the tanks, but my clecos got gunked with proseal when I did the trailing edge of the rudder. I cleaned them by soaking them in laquer thinner for a hour or so, next I took each one out and hit it with a wire bush. About 4 strokes and they were spotless. The laquer thinner really helped to loosen the curred proseal up, and I find it less harmful than MEK. When I get to the tanks I will try mounting a wire brush on my grinder or drill press. Great idea!

Good tips. I spent way too much time cleaning clecos early on. I got lazy when I started working with the epoxy and found that the epoxy pops right off most of the clecos. I've had to toss a few, but that's a much better price to pay than hours of cleco cleaning with MEK and a paper towel.

I agree with Dave. I just gave them a good wipe and let the rest dry on there. The pro-seal will just pop right off after it dries. There is no longer any pro-seal to be seen on any of my clecos.

Why bother?

Other than for purely cosmetic reasons, there really is no need to clean proseal off your clecos as long as they work correctly....as they likely will. In fact, a little dried proseal on the clecos sometimes gives them a little extra holding power when inserted in marginal holes. Dried epoxy on them is a different story altogether.

Rick6a said:

Other than for purely cosmetic reasons, there really is no need to clean proseal off your clecos as long as they work correctly....as they likely will. In fact, a little dried proseal on the clecos sometimes gives them a little extra holding power when inserted in marginal holes. Dried epoxy on them is a different story altogether.

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I took Rick's suggestion (don't bother cleaning clecos) when I did my tanks and have not regretted the decision for an instant.

-mike

I don't mind the ones that have just a little on them, it's the ones with a big proseal booger on them that really need it.


At first, I just tossed them aside and let them be. But the next day I used them for another tank rib. The problem was that little pieces would come of and stay in the hole. Some of the rivets set a little lopsided and had a little chunk of proseal on them. (Picked it out with a toothpick and hit the rivet about two more times, that usually straightened it out.) Mostly, I just want to knock the boogers off before using them again.

Rust

I cleaned mine in thinners, did a great job but a few weeks later they had rust on them.

Best to just leave the stuff to dry IMO