You can rebuild a Lyc easily, fun and save a bundle
Ola said:
I think "alternative engines" needs a new angle. If the main purpose of choosing something other than a Lycoming is purchase cost, combustion methods might be the wrong end to start.
I like the concept of the XP-360 Build School, I wonder if there is a market (or product already available) for "rebuild it yourself" kits.
A guide on how to buy and refurb a 2000hr engine, simply put. I'm sure we could get 50-100 pages on "Zen and the art of Lycoming second-hand shopping" from this forum alone.
The bits requiring heavy tools can be done by any machining shop (far, far away from any airport, lest they know how much they can charge), all assembly is done by you.
Sure, it has many potential pitfalls and many would prefer to have the engine prepared by trained professionals, but the exact same arguments are also used against home built airframes.
And anyone can go ahead and refurb a Lyc without such a kit, but many (myself included) would never consider it without instructions and parts of the same quality that the rest of the aircraft gets.
First the Superior "school" I hear is great, but its not cheap. It'll cost more to build an engine that way, plus airfare, hotel. However you'll have a great learning experience, and that's why the amateur class of planes was conceived.
It really does not require "self Help" book and a "Zen Forum of rebuild", although not a bad idea. All the help already out there.
Second you CAN rebuild a Lycoming easily. The beauty is they are built simple, its Farm Tractor technology at its best. Big, simple and straightforward.
As far as a "KIT" there is no need for that
as you said. Lycoming, ECI or Superior parts can be bought at many outlets easily. Check their web site's for dealer/distributor locations.
Lycoming has a service letter or note that list all the parts needed for an overhaul.
You will need a
Rebuild manual from Lycoming. Besides the Lycoming overhaul manual, a must have is the
Sacramento Sky Ranch Engineering Manual.
Special tools? There are not many and cost is nominal. You may be able to borrow them. Some tools you can make.
Think of it like building or remodeling a house. You can have a contractor do it all, or you can "sub-contract" it out yourself and do the initial tear out and finish work.
SENDING IT OUT
Besides parts you will need to avail yourself of special services.
If you have rebuilt a car engine, you know you bring the engine block, heads and crank in for cleaning and machining at the "machine shop". No differnce with a Lycoming. After tear down you ship the case halves, cam, followers, rods/caps, crank, accessory case gears and **cylinders off to one or more shops, lets say ECI in Texas (recommend them). They'll clean, strip, inspect, repair, re-plate as necessary. Some parts only get inspected. These machine shops or "repair stations" are certified by the FAA to do this work. They know what needs to be done.
* Cylinders can be purchased brand new, as a complete assembly with pistons and rings. You just junk or sell your old ones. You can opt to rebuild them with new guides, seats, valves and refinished. You will save money overhauling a used jugs, but it will not be less than 1/2 of new. The price of new assemblies has dropped, and $900 each is hard to beat. There are "cylinder overhaul" specialist, cost about $385 per jug.
The NEW / USED cylinder debate is open for discussion. Overhaul shops like new since they are warrantied by the manufacture. If your "seasoned" cylinders are in good shape, first run, than why not overhaul?
PUT IT TOGETHER
After you get the overhauled parts back, assemble with new bolts, buts, lock tabs and seals. You would be surprised there are not many gaskets, since many mating parts have high "flatness" tolerance and go together without gaskets.
That is it. I would suggest an experienced A&P / AI, who knows what they are doing, to help you if you're not sure. Parts and "machine shop" services are cheaper working with someone who has an account (wholesale). Many A&P's are willing to do side work. It ain't hard. If I can do it, anyone can.
PARTS & SERVICE
Parts and services are readily available, easily found with a quick internet search. In fact any of the big engine shops: Aerosport, Mattituck, PenYen, Lycon, American Engines to name just a few, may do engine "sub work". Some my do it in house or just send it off to ECI themselves? They would probably sell you parts also, but its cheaper, no doubt, to go direct to a distributor (wholesale if possible).
WHAT IT COST
You can expect to save at least $4,000 overhauling it yourself and more. You are primarily saving labor cost of dis-assembly, shipping parts out (since engine shops do that to), assembly and testing. The shop has overhead and liability you don't.
ASSESORIES:
Many things are no longer commonly "field overhauled", like Carbs. It is easier just to send it out, for a rebuilt one from Precision Airmotive, or they rebuild your actual Carb if you like. Some A&P's will say they can rebuild it and throw in an overhaul kit. For not much more than the cost of a rebuild kit, the manufacture (or Carb specialty shop) can rebuild it. Just my opinion that the the manufacture is better. A Carb's NOT very complicated, but in my opinion I think its a specialty item.
Prop Gov gos for the the prop shop for overhaul.
Mags? Most just exchange for new ones (slick), however if rebuilding Bendix mags, most A&P's can overhaul them I believe. I sold my Bendix mags and bought EI's.
Alternators? Usually or typically we use a non certified part, so those need not be sent out.
Of course new hoses, engine mounts and other items are called for in an overhaul. It is PREVENTITIVE maintenance. Don't be cheap.
WHAT TO DO?
You can clearly save a bunch of money. Down side? Well it takes work and time, but on a scale of building a whole plane, not a big deal. If you screw up, no one to blame and no warranty. Not to mention an engine failure could be hazardous to your health. Good news, "it don't take no genius", but READ Sacramento Sky Ranch's manual. If you have never done any engine work, don't have a facilities or tools to do it right, get help. Experience does count a little. It can be done by a novice with some assistance, producing excellent results. I did it, with help. It was easy, fun and now I know.
Most shops will take the engine off your hand, overhaul the whole thing, accessories and all, return it ready to go for $14,000 or less. All this assumes the cam or crank are good. If it was a normal run to TBO, than you can expect all to be OK. However individual parts can cost $230 each (exhaust valve) to almost $5,000 (crank). Whether you do it yourself or not, the key is getting a good core. If a part is bad it needs to be replaced, regardless who does the rebuild. The real key of course is hunting down a good cheap core.
From the math, the going rate for a new O320/O360, ready to mount is about $19,500. Not bad. A NEW engine kit, parts only, do it your self is about $17,000, you save $2,000. So a new engine for $17,000 and you don't have to ship out used parts for overhaul.
Going the used route, buying a core say for $5000, unless you do the overhaul yourself, it will end up costing as much as a new engine ready to fly, $5000 core + "Pro" rebuild ($10,000 to $14,000) = not a bargain, at least compared to a new engine, with new parts. However buy a core for less than $3,000, add a do it yourself OH, $8,000-$9,000, you have $12,000 into it, saving over $8,000. I would not pay anywhere close to $5,000 for a core, unless its already airworthy, usable as is.
The best bargain is the proverbial mid-time engine with log books, no damage, good compression and nominal oil use, a used engine you can bolt in and fly without rebuilding. The typical scenarios are a RV'er up-grading, selling their O320 (like Doug did) or a wind damaged plane the just flipped over, sold at auction. Problem with the salvage company is they usually want top dollar (read unrealistic), for their junk. Sometimes you can get a deal. Its a crap shoot.
I found for the basic OH work plus parts, ball park cost is $6,000. Add a few grand for accessories (Carb/FI, Mags, Prop Gov) and labor, you can see where the shops get their price. Your car cost $500-$1000 for the "big service" tune-up. The advantage of having it done by an engine shop for the big bucks is top shops Dyno the engine and do initial break-in. If you do it yourself, you are breaking-in on the plane and testing "performance" in flight. It has been done many times successfully.
SOME THINGS TO THINK ABOUT
ECI does have new Kit engines you can buy and assemble at home. I recommend dealing with ECI because I like dealing with them. I find Superior a little hard to deal with sometimes. Superior also has just been sold off. ECI is flexible and customer friendly, Superior seems rigid and wants to sell you their XP product. It has nothing to do with quality BTW. Both are good products.
Last suggestion. If there is a community or aviation Votech college with an A&P course, you may sign up for some classes or "audit" some classes if the teacher will let you. Go visit an engine shop or FBO with "heavy" maintenance that's rebuilding an engine.
Rebuild and learn how it works. Thats what home building is all about, education. I know you'll not regret rebuilding. However you do need to do lots of home work, and it does take the right tools and skill, but none are hard to achieve.
G
