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Prepping Interior for paint

vmirv8bldr

Well Known Member
So I've been following the fisheye thread regarding paint for the interior. I have Akzo'd all interior parts and have been battling back and forth in my mind whether or not to paint the interior some color, or leave it the Akzo green. Part of the mental battle is the PITA it will be to prep the surface. I understand scrub with soap and water, but rinsing seems like a pain. How do others do this? Upside down in the driveway, turn the hose on?

Ideas and "been there, done that" comments greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
To follow up with a couple of questions on interior painting....

I've been using the AKZO two-part epoxy primer stuff throughout the interior (hidden) surfaces of the empennage, wings, and now the fuselage. But...I'm looking for a couple of tips on cockpit interior painting. This is a SB RV-7A. Let's assume, for now, I want to use JetFlex interior paint.

Prime w/ AKZO epoxy primer first? Or not?

Acid-prep/alodine? or not?

Paint parts separately, then assemble? Or assemble, then paint as a whole? Or both?

I know, I know...do a search...I did, but most of the paint questions were about exterior work, etc. And I know I'll get a bunch of conflicting answers :). Just wondering about others' experiences...
 
The original AKZO....

...users found that a MEK/scotchbrite wipe/scuff was a good preparation.

The MEK will slightly soften the primer and clean, and the scotchbrite provides a mechanical grip.

They have stood the test of time....:)

Above applies to interiors....
 
Painted before assembly.

On my first build, I tried (and mostly succeeded) in painting the interior parts before there were assembled. This meant looking ahead in the plans a bit and taking a little extra "think" time.

On the second go 'round, the fuselage was already mostly built (quick build). Just used cleaner and some scotchbrite to prep the surface, then shot the whole interior with jet-glow in a light gray color.

YMMV
 
Pretty well.

Joe, how did painted parts (on your first one) hold up to riveting, where that is the fastening method?

Held up pretty well. I used rivet tape on most of the rivets on my kit and I had the 'no-mar' rivet set for my gun. The floor panels are pop-riveted the seat floors are screwed, the rear baggage bulkheads are screwed, flap covers are screwed.

I did paint the removable parts separately (seat backs, flap linkage covers, etc).

YMMV,
 
Held up pretty well. I used rivet tape on most of the rivets on my kit and I had the 'no-mar' rivet set for my gun. The floor panels are pop-riveted the seat floors are screwed, the rear baggage bulkheads are screwed, flap covers are screwed.

I did paint the removable parts separately (seat backs, flap linkage covers, etc).

YMMV,

Thanks! That's good info. I've taken to using masking tape on the rivet sets for 470 rivets, and it's amazing the difference in how they come out...they look like they've never been touched by a set at all! So I think any non-flush rivets should be okay. By "no-mar", do you mean the rubber-cupped flush set? Because I could see flush rivets in a painted surface as being the tougher ones to do without banging up your nice paint job :(.

I think this is the way I'm going to go, anyway...what's the worst that could happen? You have to touch up the paint job later? :)
 
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