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Lightspeed/Lycoming 4 cyl direct crank install

LifeofReiley

LifeofReiley

Well Known Member
Well... I've put it off long enough and would like to see if anyone has pics and documentation on installing the Lightspeed Direct Crank system on a Lycoming. I still need to drill the flywheel and install the plate... from the start as you might say. HELP PLEASE!!!! :eek:

Makes me nervous just thinking about it...

Thanks in advance!
 
Klaus

will drill the ring gear and install the pickups for 50.00 (+freight). Go to his web site there are directions there, or used to be.

Allen
 
I did mine in the shop. Measure more than twice, drill once. I think there are a few pictures and commentary somewhere on my build log. No big deal. Ok, I actually made a full size template in autocad just to double check my measurements. Sanity check. It is all about that angular alignment.
 
scard said:
I did mine in the shop. Measure more than twice, drill once. I think there are a few pictures and commentary somewhere on my build log. No big deal. Ok, I actually made a full size template in autocad just to double check my measurements. Sanity check. It is all about that angular alignment.
Click to expand...


Hello Scott,

Yes, I remember now... you did the change over. How does beer and ribeyes sound? I know your work is awesome... Can you help a fellow out? :):):)
 
transfer punch

To properly locate the holes to be drilled in the crankcase, get a set of transfer punches. (Search for them if you don't know what they are.) Get the proper size numbered drill for the thread (IIRC, it is 1/4-28?). Get a high quality thread tap, and experiment on some blocks of aluminum if you aren't comfortable with tapping threads. Get a good aluminum tapping fluid, Tap Magic makes some.

Hold the mounting plate in position, and have an assistant transfer one hole, using the transfer punch, to the crankcase. You may need to space the plate away from the crankcase a small amount to get the transfer punch to be fully engaged with the mounting plate. Remove the stuff, and drill a small pilot hole, maybe a 3/32" hole or so, then drill the tap size. Tap this hole, and then mount the plate again on the engine using the one bolt. You may need to put spacers under it to allow the transfer punches to properly engage, and then transfer the remaining holes. Tap away and that part will be done.

Send the pulley thingy to Klaus, well worth the $50.
 
AlexPeterson said:
To properly locate the holes to be drilled in the crankcase, get a set of transfer punches. (Search for them if you don't know what they are.) Get the proper size numbered drill for the thread (IIRC, it is 1/4-28?). Get a high quality thread tap, and experiment on some blocks of aluminum if you aren't comfortable with tapping threads. Get a good aluminum tapping fluid, Tap Magic makes some.

Hold the mounting plate in position, and have an assistant transfer one hole, using the transfer punch, to the crankcase. You may need to space the plate away from the crankcase a small amount to get the transfer punch to be fully engaged with the mounting plate. Remove the stuff, and drill a small pilot hole, maybe a 3/32" hole or so, then drill the tap size. Tap this hole, and then mount the plate again on the engine using the one bolt. You may need to put spacers under it to allow the transfer punches to properly engage, and then transfer the remaining holes. Tap away and that part will be done.

Send the pulley thingy to Klaus, well worth the $50.
Click to expand...

Thanks Alex!! You're always on spot with info. Flywheel will go to Klaus, we will then feel our way SLOWWWWLY thru the rest. Wish there was more support on this install locally.
 
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Darrell, while you're at it.. ask Klaus to install the bigger magnet (1/4" size) on the flywheel.. I like that option as it gives you more range for the gap and is there in case you ever decide to go dual LSE...
 
Radomir said:
Darrell, while you're at it.. ask Klaus to install the bigger magnet (1/4" size) on the flywheel.. I like that option as it gives you more range for the gap and is there in case you ever decide to go dual LSE...
Click to expand...

Awesome info... did not have have a clue about this one! Will discuss this in the morning with klaus. I will probably go dual with-in a year of flying. Thanks!
 
Another option, depending on how close you are to the Dallas/Ft. Worth area is to ask Superior how much to do it. They've got a jig; we did mine in minutes, while I was at the build school, for dual LSEs. Great people to deal with but I really have no idea how much a shop job like that would run. They might also be willing to drill the crankcase bosses if you need it; can't hurt to ask. Check out the thread on Lightspeed Wiring Specs, too.
 
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I forgot to mention one important thing - at least on my O360 - you will need to push out one of the threaded prop mount bushings to get a straight shot at drilling and tapping. I used a large c-clamp and some metal bars to push it out.

The larger magnet idea sounds like a very welcome change, I'd go with it.
 
flion said:
Another option, depending on how close you are to the Dallas/Ft. Worth area is to ask Superior how much to do it. They've got a jig; we did mine in minutes, while I was at the build school, for dual LSEs. Great people to deal with but I really have no idea how much a shop job like that would run. They might also be willing to drill the crankcase bosses if you need it; can't hurt to ask. Check out the thread on Lightspeed Wiring Specs, too.
Click to expand...

Will do... this is starting to look real good. Thanks for the input everyone.
 
AlexPeterson said:
I forgot to mention one important thing - at least on my O360 - you will need to push out one of the threaded prop mount bushings to get a straight shot at drilling and tapping. I used a large c-clamp and some metal bars to push it out.

The larger magnet idea sounds like a very welcome change, I'd go with it.
Click to expand...

I was thinking at least one would need pushing out. Should I order a new replacement? (as in one time press fit)
 
flion said:
Another option, depending on how close you are to the Dallas/Ft. Worth area is to ask Superior how much to do it. They've got a jig; we did mine in minutes, while I was at the build school, for dual LSEs. Great people to deal with but I really have no idea how much a shop job like that would run. They might also be willing to drill the crankcase bosses if you need it; can't hurt to ask. Check out the thread on Lightspeed Wiring Specs, too.
Click to expand...

A jig... now that's a great idea! I can see how this drilling process could be very critical. I would love to have a jig. Will call... asap tomorrow. Also now have an F1 Rocket builder in line to help me out.

Thanks!
 
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LifeofReiley said:
A jig... now that's a great idea! I can see how this drilling process could be very critical. I would love to have a jig. Will call... asap tomorrow. Also now have an F1 Rocket builder in line to help me out.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Let me be sure I didn't give you the wrong impression. They don't sell the jig; it's a one-off machined tool that they use when they do LSE installations. You could get one made up at a machine shop but it would be prohibitively expensive for a single use. I was suggesting that you ask them if they would be willing to drill your flywheel and crankcase.
 
I take most are getting the Lightspeed EI installed by an engine builder, not as many replies on the thread. I guess that's one good way to do it... :) My friend is actually an EVO F Series Rocket builder, relieved he states this is a piece of cake. I hope it all works out well... I'm sure it ill.
 
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Klaus

I spoke with Klaus today and learned that the 1/4" magnet is now his "in shop" install. He stated that he no longer installs the small magnets. He still ships out the small magnets and drill bit with his EI kits for builder installs. My flywheel should be drilled and on its way back Thursday.

Thanks again Radomir!
 
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AlexPeterson said:
I forgot to mention one important thing - at least on my O360 - you will need to push out one of the threaded prop mount bushings to get a straight shot at drilling and tapping. I used a large c-clamp and some metal bars to push it out.

The larger magnet idea sounds like a very welcome change, I'd go with it.
Click to expand...

Alex,

The flywheel is back, Klaus did a great install... tight level fit for sure. I also received a document with the install that states:

"When using 1/4" diameter magnets, maximum magnet to sensor surface/skip plate gap can be as much as 0.110". The minimum clearance of 0.030" still applies".

Ah, should be a lot easier to setup now. Also, this magnet setup will run dual Lightspeeds later if desired.

Thanks again everyone! :)
 
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Klaus???

who is Klaus and where can he be reached. I rechecked this thread and didn't see and address listed. Thanks!
 
Not so bad...

Well, the deed is done... the direct crank sensor is drilled, tapped and installed to the case halves. With the jig I made, it really turned out ot be a piece of cake. Took all of 40 minutes... what a lot of wasted time wondering. Learned a lot for sure, THANKS again for everyones help!
 
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