Elevator Issues - E-702, 703 & 704 (Pictures)

Tonight I was *trying* to work on my elevators but apparently the aluminum gods aren't happy with me. I am having problems getting the holes to line up where the E-702 Spar, E-702 Tip Rib and E-704 Counterbalance Rib all come together. I realize these kits aren't manufactured to space shuttle tolerances, and a bit of rework is normal, but this is off a more than I have seen prior. I have tried tweaking the flanges somewhat, but if I make one set of holes line up, others get worse. Anybody else have fit issues here? If so, what did you do?



If I get the little tabs to attach to the spar flange, I end up with this nasty space between the counterblance rib and the tip rib. But wait... it gets worse...



Yikes, those aren't even close. If I cleco these, then the holes where the tip rib attaches don't line up (at all).



I don't know if this is related to the problem above, but I might to email Van's about this... the flanges of the tip rib are bent at different lengths. The holes are about 1D difference in distance from the web. It's fuzzy but you can see the difference in flange lengths at top center.

I just took another look at my post and I realized I probably should have posted the picture showing the aft counterbalance rib flange clecoed to the spar (along with the tip rib). In that configuration, the little tabs on the the counterbalance rib don't even come close to lining up with the spar flange no matter how much I twist or tweak.

I think the key here is to keep working that little tab thingy as it is probably the least critical connection. Oh well, I will get some rest and tackle this tomorrow with a fresh head. In the meantime, if anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears.

I had the same problem. Afetr talking it through with Gus at Vans I cut the flange off the shorter rib and rivited on an angle to replace it - the rib is the same thickness as the stiffeners so I used a left over piece of stiffener angle. As the flange is only attached to the spar using 2 x 1/8 rivets that is all that is needed to attach the angle to the rib. I drilled through both ribs to attach the angle. I also found the pre-punched holes in the counter balance skin did not line up with the holes in the ribs, by at least 1/32. In the end I just enlarged the holes in the rib, using the skin as a drill guide - the rivets came out OK. On the left side I was very careful to flute the ribs straight and get them to sit flat on each other, but still had the same problem - I decided to use cheater rivets, although it probably doesn't make much difference.

I also had a problem with the inboard rib on the left elevator where it joins the rear spar (that supports the trim tab) - again I cut the flange off and bent up a new one - I think that rib was made from thicker sheet (0.032 IIRC)

Pete

As a follow-up to my earlier post, I sent Van's the picture above, to which they responded,"It looks like it slipped off the form" and "We are sending you new ribs."

As far as the other issue goes, I am going wait for my new ribs to come before I tackle it.

BTW... thanks for the tip Penguin.

I know this thread is old, but since I'm experiencing the same problem now (Nov 2011), I appreciate the help. Van's replied by saying to cleco on the skin and be sure the alignment is exactly what the skin would require, and then to check the holes with the skin in place. They did mention "running a number 30" through the holes if they weren't too misaligned, and even setting a "third, feel good rivet" if desired. Clecoed the skin on, holes still misaligned.

I think my holes are misaligned by half.....i.e. one hole drilled through them would be 1/8" X 1.5 = 3/16" which is way big for that location, not to mention what it would take to set them in that location. So, I'm going with cutting the small rib flange off and bending up a new set to rivet in place.

Thanks again,

Brad
Carmel, IN