For those of you who installed a lightspeed ignition, I'm curious how you routed the input cable from the sensing unit to the computer, in the cockpit. The input cable has a 15-pin connector, with the other end of the cable already soldered to the circuit board to attach to the engine. I'm reluctant to cut a hole in the firewall large enough to pass the connector through and I don't see that the connector pins can be removed as they are already soldered and heat shrinked for insulation. Anyone have a way to minimize the hole in the firewall for the ignition?
Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Lightspeed install question
- Thread starter trib
- Start date
Jeff Vaughan
Well Known Member
Tim,
I cut a notch down from the firewall scalloped edge to a hole. I inserted a grommet that had been split in half and placed around the wire. I then firesealed the notch really well.
I can send you photos if you are interested.
I cut a notch down from the firewall scalloped edge to a hole. I inserted a grommet that had been split in half and placed around the wire. I then firesealed the notch really well.
I can send you photos if you are interested.
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
Use these.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewallshields.php
You want the split ones, scroll down to pick the correct size.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewallshields.php
You want the split ones, scroll down to pick the correct size.
Guy Prevost
Well Known Member
Just cut the connector off and re-solder it on the other side of the firewall. The schematic is in the manual. You've probably wired the rest of your plane by now, so this should be a no-brainer.
G
G
Rick_A
Well Known Member
hole size
If you take the shell off and work the connector in at an angle the hole is smaller then you might think. I made a mock-up on a piece of scrap to determine the minimum size. The mock-up then worked nicely as a template. Also used the split SS shields.
Mine ended up being about 1.25" x .5".
I believe Klaus specifically states not to un-solder the connector.
If you take the shell off and work the connector in at an angle the hole is smaller then you might think. I made a mock-up on a piece of scrap to determine the minimum size. The mock-up then worked nicely as a template. Also used the split SS shields.
Mine ended up being about 1.25" x .5".
I believe Klaus specifically states not to un-solder the connector.
AlexPeterson
Well Known Member
Picture
I'll post a picture of how I made the pass-through later tonight - don't have the picture with me.
I'll post a picture of how I made the pass-through later tonight - don't have the picture with me.
Finley Atherton
Well Known Member
Tim,
Have you riveted on the top fwd. skin? If not you can enlarge one of the notches on the edge of the firewall just big enough for the wire and associated bush/grommet, install the wire/bush in the notch then later rivet the the skin to the firewall to hold everything in place. I used a small snap bushing (split), sealed it with proseal and then a layer of firewall sealant over the dried proseal.
Fin
9A Flying
Have you riveted on the top fwd. skin? If not you can enlarge one of the notches on the edge of the firewall just big enough for the wire and associated bush/grommet, install the wire/bush in the notch then later rivet the the skin to the firewall to hold everything in place. I used a small snap bushing (split), sealed it with proseal and then a layer of firewall sealant over the dried proseal.
Fin
9A Flying
Last edited:
how about this?
I was thinking about Jeff's approach before I sent the post. A combination of Jeff's and Mike's suggestions might be best. Cut a notch down from the scalloped top of the firewall just large enough for the cable and cover the opening with the split shield. My concern with cutting the firewall from the top was that it might somehow lessen the strength, vs. cutting a hole in the firewall. The top skin would then be forced to carry the entire load. Anyone have any comment on whether this would affect the integrity of the firewall (by cutting a notch vs. a hole)? I'm looking forward to Alex's photos.
thanks all!
I was thinking about Jeff's approach before I sent the post. A combination of Jeff's and Mike's suggestions might be best. Cut a notch down from the scalloped top of the firewall just large enough for the cable and cover the opening with the split shield. My concern with cutting the firewall from the top was that it might somehow lessen the strength, vs. cutting a hole in the firewall. The top skin would then be forced to carry the entire load. Anyone have any comment on whether this would affect the integrity of the firewall (by cutting a notch vs. a hole)? I'm looking forward to Alex's photos.
thanks all!
AlexPeterson
Well Known Member
I took a piece of stainless sheet, drilled two holes (for the silicone tubes), and cut a slit to one edge. The firewall has a hole large enough for the connectors. The slit allows on to deform just enough to get the wire into the holes. Used high temp rtv and popped it on with a couple non-aluminum rivets. The silicone tubes were slit also.
Lightspeed
The Hall Effect is slightly different, a 9 pin connector to the sensor and 15 pin to the input connector on the brain box. I did not want that big hole in the firewall, simply cut off the 9 pin connector and crimped sub D pins. The Hall Effect only uses 6 pins
pin 1 Shield
pin 2&3 Channel A
pin 6&7 Channel B
pin 8 Shield
The 15 pin shouldn't be that big of a deal if your comfortable with reading the schematic.
Good Luck
Gary
N715AB
The Hall Effect is slightly different, a 9 pin connector to the sensor and 15 pin to the input connector on the brain box. I did not want that big hole in the firewall, simply cut off the 9 pin connector and crimped sub D pins. The Hall Effect only uses 6 pins
pin 1 Shield
pin 2&3 Channel A
pin 6&7 Channel B
pin 8 Shield
The 15 pin shouldn't be that big of a deal if your comfortable with reading the schematic.
Good Luck
Gary
N715AB
flion
Well Known Member
And a pin extractor would save you having to crimp or solder/splice. I haven't got to that stage yet but the control cables for my autopilot servos came with one end not pinned into the connector yet but I had an extractor handy (I work with computers for a living, if you can call it that) just in case. I'm thinking you could ask Lightspeed for an unpinned connector and a pin diagram. You'd still want the extractor if you ever want to remove the cable, though. For electronic tool stuff like D-Sub pin extractors I usually go to Fry's Electronics or your local/online equivalent.
Lightspeed
Totally agree with the pin extractor..
Lightspeed likes to use solder connectors so the pin extraction tool will not work. All my Sub D connectors, male and female sub D pins, crimp tool, extractor, et. came from B&C. You can also purchase them from Stein or Terminal Town.
Gary
Totally agree with the pin extractor..
Lightspeed likes to use solder connectors so the pin extraction tool will not work. All my Sub D connectors, male and female sub D pins, crimp tool, extractor, et. came from B&C. You can also purchase them from Stein or Terminal Town.
Gary
