Priming Interior (cabin area) parts?

Having just started the fuse (yeah!), I am starting to think ahead about a few things, one of which is which interior parts to prime and with what.

I am planning on painting my interior (cabin) at some point, and I have seen where some people have created additional work for themselves by priming the cabin area parts with epoxy or even self-etch primers way in advance, causing them to have to sand and/or strip parts later on when they wanted to paint.

Anywhooo? I am thinking that I might prime only the mating surfaces of the exposed cabin parts, including the angles on the back of the firewall, in the hopes of making it easier on myself down the road when it comes time to prep and prime for paint.

Good idea? Bad idea? Is there something I am missing? Thanks!

Brad,
I went through this same thought process just a few weeks ago. Here is my take on the whole deal. I primed all of my firewall angle. I figured that eventually I would adhere some sort of sound/insulating mat there and it would turn into a non issue. As far as the rest of the cabin area, I am only priming everything that won't be in sight with AKZO - floor ribs, floor skins, etc.. Parts that will partially be seen (like the F-706 bulkhead) I am priming the mating surfaces with GBP-988 and leaving the rest unprimed above the floor. The great thing about spraycan primer is I can just wipe off any overspray with acetone and not have to worry about sanding it off like with AKZO. Another thing to consider is if you are going to used a prefabbed interior package, then you will have less interior paint to worry about.

Now I am sure that I am going 100% overboard on this since the cabin area is a low moisture area anyways and is the last part of the plane that will develop corrosion. If I lived in Sunny California like you, I would just put everything together with just fogging mating surfaced. But, since there is a chance my plane could be within a runwaylength of saltwater, I am playing it safe.

BTW, I am planning on using Sherwin Williams JetFlex interior paint. So far, I have heard great things about how tough it is.

Brad,
My solution was to simply prime AND finish paint all of my interior parts prior to re-assembly (after dimpling, Alodining and priming). I used PPG's Delta (equivilant of DuPont Imron) paint in Vans powercoat gray. I used Sterling U1201/U1202 epoxy primer under it.
Delta is PPG's top rated paint and it costs only a few dollars a gallon more than the PPG Concept that a lot of builders choose. This paint is so durable that concerns about chipping it or damaging it during the riveting process proved to be unfounded.
Priming and painting prior to assembly/riveting will save you time, allow superior quality workmanship (no runs, sags or areas with no paint) and insures a good chemical bond between the primer and paint. I applied my finish paint about an hour after applying the primer.
Charlie Kuss
PS I can send you photos of my interior off list if you are interested.

I very much agree with Charlie - wise suggestion by him

I am painting my RV4 cockpit with PPG Concept (dulled down slightly with flattening agent). All along while building my fuselage I kept thinking that finish painting all the exposed cockpit parts before final assembly would be the way to go. Like Charlie says, no drips, runs or errors! I was just lazy and didn't want to wait for the paint to harden. Despite what it says on the paint tech sheets, it takes about a week for the paint to harden up. So what, work on something else. There is always something else to work on. I am now trying to prep and paint my interior and it's very challenging. I'm using a small HVLP spray gun and that really helps. It's a Sata mini-jet HVLP/3. REALLY facilitates close quarters painting.

Again, next airplane I build - I'll follow Charlie's path. The reason you started this post is because you know it is a good idea, right?

Very sincerely, Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing

Thanks

Thanks guys. I hear you, but I must admit, I am really not to hot on the idea of getting set up for paint now (I hate painting), but I am going to think about this a bit. I appreciate your input, thank you!

Brad-

In the center/forward fuselage area, I only primed those interior parts that would not be visible or able to be primed once installed, like the bottom of the seat skins. Everything else did not receive the primer coat until just before I sprayed the topcoat.

One exception: I did prime all those firewall angles and bulkheads initially. Then, since I used a basic self-etching spray can primer when I first assembled the firewall, I just sprayed a light coat over the old coat before applying the top coat of paint--no scuffing or sanding necessary. Seems to have worked fine. It all depends, of course, on what type of primer you decide to use.

I'm an advocate of painting in the plane. Although it does require taping things up to prevent overspray, it also allow you to paint all those rivets. Some people like the look of unpainted rivets, but I personally find them distracting to the eye and makes the plane look too "busy". Just personal preference of course.

Everything that that is screwed into the airplane will be sprayed just prior to final assembly.

All these little things that you do to make the plane your own are kind of fun since the rest of the plane building process requires so little creativity. Enjoy it! Good luck.

Lots of ideas out there. Here is mine. I used AXKO two part epoxy primer on all the inside parts of my -8A (6 too), except the firewall. I painted the interior after it was riveted. I am using spray cans of Rustoleum light machinery gray. The only prep work required of the primer is to roughen it up with a scotch brite pad, blow the dust off and use a tack rag. Then paint. The advantage for me is touch up in the coming years. The Rustoleum is easy to use and fills in nicely. The finish may not be as great as others but is still very nice (and tough). I have painted the parts that were powdercoated also (roll bars, canopy frame and such). Just my 2 cents

RV7Factory said:

Thanks guys. I hear you, but I must admit, I am really not to hot on the idea of getting set up for paint now (I hate painting), but I am going to think about this a bit. I appreciate your input, thank you!

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Just remember the old saying "The lazy man works hardest of all". Putting painting off later will result in more work and more difficult work. My advise will REDUCE your ultimate work load and produce superior results. (I always like less work with better results).
Charlie Kuss

dont say he didnt tell ya

chaskuss said:

Just remember the old saying "The lazy man works hardest of all". Putting painting off later will result in more work and more difficult work. My advise will REDUCE your ultimate work load and produce superior results. (I always like less work with better results).
Charlie Kuss

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pay now or later,,will be much more work later and wont be as good due to the inability to etch and alodine.
but if your only going mek/thinnner and self etch spray bomb then id do it later...i did mst of mine prior and i used an epoxy that i had to re apply (thinned 25% for a sealer) for the parts i didnt do...wished i had done them earlier...i really really hate painting. if i didnt have to paint and next time i wont. i could do this in 1/3 the time.

Pre-Finishing the Interior

Hi Brad

I was scratching my head about this a couple of months ago. Following some of the above advice, I have been finish painting the interior as I go. I decided to go with Stewart Systems, mainly because it is so non-toxic.

The Stewart folks are REALLY helpful. I primed all the parts with smoke grey primer and then use the topcoat for the parts that show. I am slowly learning to produce a really nice topcoat. SHould be very useful when it is time to paint. Come check it out some afternoon.

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Fuselage
San Ramon

mlwynn said:

Come check it out some afternoon.

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Hey Michael. Yup, I'm long overdue for another visit. Email sent.