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RV-12 Build Time

westexflyboy

Active Member
Van's hasn't said with certainty, but something tells me the RV-12 will come with final size matched hole parts throughout most of the basic airframe.

To me this means:
1. Read the plans and instructions
2. Pull the right parts out of the box
3. Smooth the edges, round the corners, pull off the plastic
4. Wash and lightly prime critical areas
5. Cleco parts together. The parts are self-aligning so no jigs required.

One assembly should be sufficient in most instances with very little drilling, deburring, dimpling, and 2nd or 3rd assembly. So next step:

6.Replace clecos with a pneumatic pull riveter one at a time.

I envision the entire stabilator, for example, going together in a single day. And, the need for an extra set of hands is all but gone.

When we get to controls, instruments, wiring, plumbing, etc. the build process will be just about the same as any other RV, and that can still take several hundred hours. Basic sheet aluminum assembly should "fly" together. What do you think? 500-600 hours total from a standard kit?

Chase Snodgrass
Presidio, Texas
http://flybigbend.com
 
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Forgive me for asking...I'm not all that wise on metal construction, but with the pulled rivet construction method that the -12 will use, how much actual deburring and dimpling will be required? From what I see, that's where a lot of time is spent.

I really hope that you're right on this. It would be amazing to see a completed airframe in 500 hours...that's less than a half year if you're working 20-25 hours per week on it. Of course, I suppose the wiring could take a while if you're going to equip it IFR.

I'll be interested to see the answer here also. :)
 
I say you've pulled the rivet through the nail Chase :D

I also agree that as far as wiring and plumbing goes, an airplane is an airplane. However, an LSA should require much less in the way of systems and should be much easier to complete. The last 10% of the project seems to take 90% of the effort.
 
westexflyboy said:
something tells me most of the RV-12 will come with final size matched hole parts throughout most of the basic airframe.
Forgive me if this has been answered elsewhere, but how does one reconcile this with the prepunched holes in the other kits, where we're admonished to be sure to drill to full size and deburr lest the holes develop cracks? Do you suppose they have a new machine that drills and deburrs instead of punching holes in the metal? Very curious.

mcb
 
Pulled rivets don't expand in the hole like driven rivets do. Pop rivets don't put as much stress on the metal, thus reducing the need to debur.

PJ
RV-10 #40032
 
Just like the model airplanes when you were a kid...

From Van's Website in the RV-12 section:

As ever, I?m amazed at how matched-hole punching has reduced assembly time. I learned a few things about blind rivets, too. I hadn?t thought about it before, but one of the advantages of blind rivets is that you no longer have to consider bucking access when you design the structure. Rib flanges can turn either way and there?s no need to worry about how to reach inside a closing structure. Just cleco the skins on, stick blind rivets in all the remaining holes and go to work with the pneumatic rivet puller. No dimpling -- since the airplane?s top speed is limited by rule, there?s no particular need for flush rivets. Low profile blind rivets ain?t cheap (at least, compared to solid rivets) but they are quick. Another lesson ? seaming pliers will be an important tool on this project. Flanges must be adjusted carefully to make the full-sized pre-punched holes align exactly ? and they need to be aligned if the blind rivet is to go in easily.

I don't know if this applies to the rest of the aircraft, but ther are full size holes on this bird. If the whole bird has full size holes, I think you will see some record build times!! Maybe Van's will do the Oshkosh demo like Zenith did a few years back. But, instead of building a plane in 7 days they'll get it done in 6! :p But seriously, pulled rivets, full size holes and reduced/no de-burring all add up to a plane that goes together very quickly.

The 12 is shaping up to be the best suited airplane for me (pop-off wings, quick build time, RV-"lite" handling) and my missions, now if we could just get a little more gas in the tank, this would be a perfect weekend getaway machine.

...And that's good for me, as I promised the wife regular weekend (2+ per month) excurisions back when I first got my PPL and she's still waiting!

Looks like Revell (the famous model airplane maker) is going to have some stiff competition if they ever decide to sell full scale models :eek:
 
mburch said:
Forgive me if this has been answered elsewhere, but how does one reconcile this with the prepunched holes in the other kits, where we're admonished to be sure to drill to full size and deburr lest the holes develop cracks? Do you suppose they have a new machine that drills and deburrs instead of punching holes in the metal? Very curious.

mcb
I have built a previous tube and fabric airplane I am currently flying in addition to my RV9A project I am currently working on. That previous project had all pop rivets. I had never "bucked" a rivet before starting the RV. The pop rivets are much easier to work with and do not require a second set of hands to buck on the other side. With the exception of some very minor assistance here or there from friends I built the entire airplane by myself. This is really not possible with the RV I am building now.

As far as the pre-punched holes you are referring to, I have asked a friend who is a machinist many times why those pre-punched holes were not punched to actual size. He mentioned the tolerances for those holes. By punching them undersized they can have much more accurate tolerances for each one. I suppose this is a plausible concept but I don't know for sure if that is the true reason. I do know that it is a huge pain to cleko together, drill, take apart, debur both sides, dimple, cleko back together and finally rivet. That is a huge time consuming process.
 
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