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Jigging??

Aussie 7

Member
G'day,
I am just about to put the $$$ down on the empanage kit, However I was wondering, the Promotional DVD states that Jigging is not required, is this true for the whole construction of the -7 ??? I have a set of the construction Vids and he ( name escapes me,.. apologies :confused: ) and he jigs the whole aircraft thru all constrution phases,..

Thanks
JJ
 
JJ, You are gonna wanna jig it.

...at least the wings.

But don't be afraid! Jigs are nothing but custom work benches!

Nuttin' to it bu to do it!

;) CJ

(drilling my wing skins NOW!!!)

:D
 
you mean the Emanage and fuse as well?? and is everything "Matched hole" as the DVD says it is?? sorry to ask such dumb questions. :confused:

JJ
 
Don't be sorry. They are quite typical.

I had an older emp and HAD to jig it. Most peeps aren't doing that now.

I haven't started the fuse yet, but from what I can tell most -7 builders do not jig but the -8's (being an older kit) do.

What are you planning on?

:cool: CJ
 
I'm currently finishing up the tips on my 7 empennage. I did not use a jig for it, and it looks just fine.. In fact, I'd say it's pretty difficult to get it wrong with the pre-punched holes. I will be jigging my wing (when the kit arrives in June), but I've heard that it's not really necessary with the pre-punched holes in there as well. I've also heard the argument that it's MUCH easier to work on the wing in the jig, and if there's one thing you want nice and straight, it's the wing. And considering that it's fairly simple to build, it's worth it. If you have any other builders in your area, most are happy to let you have their jig, since it's only used once and never touched again... In fact, I've heard about several jigs that have made the rounds in my area and have been part of several people's projects!
 
Jigs & Fixtures

JJ,

The -7 does not need jigging. With the prepunched holes, no jigs are necessary, and even if you tried wumping one up, it isn't going improve alignment, the pre-punched holes line up with their mates, and that's that. The aircraft is truly self-jigging.

The non-prepunched kits did require jigs to properly locate parts with respect to one another in the desired final alignment. What is now handy are fixtures for the prepunched kits. A fixture is a positioning or clamping device, like another set of helping hands, to hold parts while they are in work. The wings need fixturing. The floor-to-ceiling posts with the spar suspended between them, per the instructions, holds the wing assembly vertically so you can get to both sides easily for riveting. Having a wing lying on the workbench while riveting would be an absolute back-breaking pain. Sawhorses to support the fuselage components as they are assembled can be considered another type of fixture. You'll find one secret to easy, quality riveting is that the workpiece be firmly restrained while bucking (squeezing, too). You'll need a variety of clamps. That's all I needed for my -7.

John Siebold
 
I am planning on the Tail dragger, with slider canopy, Thanks for all the help,.. i was really worried I might have to go out and build the fuse Jig, as for the wing Jig,.. that will be no problem to knock up by the sounds of it, does anyone have any pics of their fuse, etc,..in the early stages,..

Thanks again
JJ
 
Don't need to get Jiggy wid it

I put my fuselage together last month and all I used was some plastic sawhorses because they will be all the same height. With the pre-punched holes you can't mess it up, same for the wings.

The wing jigs are nothing more than some vertical posts with horizontal arms. There are a number of web sites out there explaining how the various builders made there. On my Things to Consider page I talked about how I made my wing jig and made sure it was level w/o using a fancy laser level.

Good luck and don't worry abou the jigs, they are easy to make.
 
Jigging?

I have just started my empennage and thought about jigging it. just to have the assembly upright so I can reach all around it. Also which way did any of you guys place the rivets . The shop head inside or outside the spar?
Scott
 
HS cradles seemed to work very well for me.

Factory rivet head generally goes on the thinner material. However, my EAA Tech person and build class instructor recommended that in most cases, unless one of the pieces was really thin, to do whatever was easiest. In the case of the rib flanges to spar, putting the factory head on the flange helps prevent the flange from distorting slightly. Again, though, I think whichever way you can get the squeezer best on the rivet is probably more important.

good luck,

Steve
 
Aussie 7's Aussie Seven

Aussie 7,
If you really won't to know about this jig thing, forget the forum and come and look at some RV7s under construction.
There are more RVs being built in Australia per head of population than in the States. If you live near Melbourne come and see mine.......... provided you drink beer. Otherwise contact the SAAA (Our EAA) for a list of builders. There are builders in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth and Darwin. Port Headland, Albany, Geelong. Gold Coast, Bendio and Tumbabloodyrumba.
The same goes for whether too build a tail dragger or a tip up or whatever. Come and look. Seeing is believing. Find out what tools you need, benches, beer frig requirements etc.
We love showing of our aeroplanes.

good luck,
Pete.
 
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