Van's Air Force
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CS Prop line
- Thread starter DonPro
- Start date
You can get the line made by Lycoming and will also need some other parts, here is a list of what you will need. The line is already bent to form around the engine and works well and it is stainless.
1 each 75167 Prop gove line
1 each 75165 bracket
1 each STD-1930 hose
1 each LW or SL31-0.94 bolt
1 each 75167 Prop gove line
1 each 75165 bracket
1 each STD-1930 hose
1 each LW or SL31-0.94 bolt
az_gila
Well Known Member
Was an AD
This was also the subject of an AD. Aluminum lines must be replaced with SS, and the mounting points for the SS hard line are specifically noted.
An acceptable alternative on the AD was a flexible hose. This might be the easier way to go if you don't have the SS Lycoming parts....
gil in Tucson
This was also the subject of an AD. Aluminum lines must be replaced with SS, and the mounting points for the SS hard line are specifically noted.
An acceptable alternative on the AD was a flexible hose. This might be the easier way to go if you don't have the SS Lycoming parts....
gil in Tucson
Buy the Lycoming part, new. This is a very high criticality part. Spring a leak, or worse, split the line, and you'll be landing in a couple of minutes *or* possibly have an engine compartment fire.The flex hose might be a viable option, but the clearance at the front bearing is tight. Not sure how easily it would work. I have the stainless.
I'm afraid I disagree. The hose is a viable option. Your looking at about 60-80 psi of oil. An Aeroquip steel braided hose is serious overkill here. You use them on your oil cooler and remote mounted oil filter (if installed). Some people even mount their oil cooler up front and run hoses above or below the cylinders. Why wouldn't a hose be acceptable for the prop governor?
I had no doubts when I went with the Aeroquip hose. My engine was not set up for constant speed prop. I had to purchase a governor mount but couldn't find the lyc. tubing without paying Lycoming a king's ransom. I ran the hose under the right cylinders and up thru the front baffle piece, just like the lyc tube would be run. Also used two Adel clamps to some of the sump bolts. Works great.
Karl
I had no doubts when I went with the Aeroquip hose. My engine was not set up for constant speed prop. I had to purchase a governor mount but couldn't find the lyc. tubing without paying Lycoming a king's ransom. I ran the hose under the right cylinders and up thru the front baffle piece, just like the lyc tube would be run. Also used two Adel clamps to some of the sump bolts. Works great.
Karl
I had a Custom made Aeroquip Teflon Stainless Braid hose made for my engine 10 years ago. The one I have is a PMA part rated at 3,000 PSI. I could have got one for $4 less that was only 1,500 PSI rated. 10 years go, the hose cost $54 and they made it while I waited. I took them a mock up that was the length I wanted.
At the time, I could purchase both the Rigid Stainless or the Teflon Braided hose with firesleave from Lycoming at a much higher price. I had a custom made rigid stainless line that was made for me by a friend. I when with the Teflon hose and gave the Rigid line to another RV builder and he is flying with it.
After 1,953 hours of flying over 9 years, the 3,000 PSI rated Aeroquip Teflon hose is still working.
At the time, I could purchase both the Rigid Stainless or the Teflon Braided hose with firesleave from Lycoming at a much higher price. I had a custom made rigid stainless line that was made for me by a friend. I when with the Teflon hose and gave the Rigid line to another RV builder and he is flying with it.
After 1,953 hours of flying over 9 years, the 3,000 PSI rated Aeroquip Teflon hose is still working.
Using an appropriate hose in lieu of the stainless steel rigid line is approved by Lycoming and the FAA.
See for more information:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulator...5684F006E5ADC?OpenDocument&Highlight=lycoming
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
See for more information:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulator...5684F006E5ADC?OpenDocument&Highlight=lycoming
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
N941WR
Legacy Member
A friend was flying his Cardinal one evening, just after sunset, when the forward fitting on the prop line broke (pre-AD aluminum fitting?). Lucky for him he just passed a small country airport and the landing lights happened to be on. He descended, turned base, final, and landed. Rolled off on to a taxi way and shut down.
I can still remember him commenting on pulling that plane up hill by hand to the tie down area and being thankful he was able to do that.
In the morning when we went to inspect the plane he found there was a bit over two quarts of oil left so the engine was fine. Total time between him being aware of the problem and getting it on the ground was less than five minutes but it must have seemed like an hour as the windscreen was COVERED with oil.
Moral of the story, use quality parts for your prop lines.
I can still remember him commenting on pulling that plane up hill by hand to the tie down area and being thankful he was able to do that.
In the morning when we went to inspect the plane he found there was a bit over two quarts of oil left so the engine was fine. Total time between him being aware of the problem and getting it on the ground was less than five minutes but it must have seemed like an hour as the windscreen was COVERED with oil.
Moral of the story, use quality parts for your prop lines.
frankh
Well Known Member
Much cheaper way
to get a hose is to go down to your local hydraulics shoppe.
You will get a teflon hose with steel fittings for about $3.30 a foot plus the fittings they will swage on the end.
MUCH cheaper than "proper" aircraft parts and just as good.
They also sell the 1/4" nylon brake line tubing too...
Frank
to get a hose is to go down to your local hydraulics shoppe.
You will get a teflon hose with steel fittings for about $3.30 a foot plus the fittings they will swage on the end.
MUCH cheaper than "proper" aircraft parts and just as good.
They also sell the 1/4" nylon brake line tubing too...
Frank
It's my understanding that the prop governor takes engine oil pressure and boosts it somewhere in the range of 400-900 (I've heard several different values from different people) to send to the prop, is that correct?
I work with compressed gases at pressures to 10,000 psi regularly, I have many varieties of stainless braid and Kevlar braid lines rated for pressures up to 6000, what kind of flow rates are we talking about here? What is the diameter of the rigid stainless line?
And before we get into it, yes I know I would need a different internal tubing material for oil versus air line - got that covered. I've also got the capability of bending my own rigid stainless in 1/4" and 3/8" if needed.
I work with compressed gases at pressures to 10,000 psi regularly, I have many varieties of stainless braid and Kevlar braid lines rated for pressures up to 6000, what kind of flow rates are we talking about here? What is the diameter of the rigid stainless line?
And before we get into it, yes I know I would need a different internal tubing material for oil versus air line - got that covered. I've also got the capability of bending my own rigid stainless in 1/4" and 3/8" if needed.
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Yes, the propeller governor contains an oil pump to boost the pressure to what is required to actuate the propeller. My manual lists 180-300 psi as being common. I personally have worked with systems that put out nearly 400 psi, usually only on aircraft with reversing propellers.airguy said:
