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how to use tight fit dimpling fixture from cleveland

yup,,, 3/8 female die... a cp214?... not sure what that is... I have the complete dimple die set. is the cp214 the male counterpart?

thanks
 
The cp214 is a pneumatic squeeze. I think the close quarters dimple dies you refer to are used with a pop rivet gun. I could be wrong. Do you have a part number for reference?
 
Its just two small discs with a hole in the middle and a few nails? You use a pop rivet gun to use these. Put the nail through one of the discs, then through the aluminum. Slide the other disc over the nail, and then put your pop rivet gun on the nail and squeeze it as hard as you can. The nails will wear out occationaly and break, and you'll have to use a new one.
 
skidmk said:
yup,,, 3/8 female die... a cp214?... not sure what that is... I have the complete dimple die set. is the cp214 the male counterpart?
thanks

Mike,

A CP-214 is a pneumatic squeezer. No worries, if you don't know what it is, you don't have one - you'd remember paying for it :D That said, you want one. It's a great tool and if you buy used, you can sell it for what you paid for it once you're done.

You use the 3/8" female die with the full-size male die for the 3/32 rivets. The 3/8" female lets you position the yoke of your squeezer in a tight space like a rib flange.

Is this what you have?

dies_lg.jpg



If so use the male 3/32 die with it, using whatever sqeezer you have. If you don't have a squeezer you need one, as the c-frame or DRDT won't work on rib flanges. Using the pop-rivet dies on every rib flange will suck, to say the least.
 
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more questions?

d1abc606a5c732229fa33be83062a2d4_fe8.jpg



here is a picture of the tool I purchased. I do have a pnuematic,and the pop rivet set, and the hand squeezer,,, just not sure what to do with this... ahhh alas a 2 dim brain working at building a 3 dim plane :)


 
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read it,, I do not have a "c" frame, and I cannot understand how one would use the male die in a rivet gun?
 
Thats looks like the female side of a dimple die in the end...the other 3 countersunk holes are to bolt it to the edge of a work bench. On ribs where the last few holes get real close together at the trailing eldge, use this tool to slip inbetween the flange, and use a hammer with the male portion of a die and make your dimple by hitting it with a hammer. If you dont have a C frame that you can "borrow" the shaft out of, you'll probaly need to make or buy one...nothing more than just a steel bar with a 3/16 hole in the end to accept a die.
 
Rod and Mallet

Since you don't have a c-frame, you don't have the steel rod that goes in one. No problem. Run out and get a steel rod about 10 - 12 inches long. Diameter isn't crucial, about 3/8" will suffice. In one end, drill a hole that will accept the insert end of a dimple die. Drill that hole straight, or have a machine shop do it for you. Once you have that, simply insert the male die. Screw that Cleveland tool onto your work surface and place the rib hole you wish to dimple over it. Use the steel rod with the male dimple die in it to hold the rib in place. It should be light enough, if not, get someone else to hold the rib in place.

Ready? Hit the steel rod with the mallet once or twice to make the dimple. Use moderate force. You will visually be able to see when the dies have both bottomed out on the aluminum and the dimple is complete.

You will only need this device on a couple of holes.

Alternativelely, buy the C-frame and use the rod that comes with it. Or, there is a Vice-grip type dimpler that works well for these holes.

Best of luck!
 
thanks for all the help.... now I get it.. I use a DRDT-2 so, there is no rod to take out.

thanks again

M
 
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